Show your Zuke !!!
Aug 23, 2007 | 04:50 PM
#21
Trailblazer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 66
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Show your Zuke !!!
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: warrior226
Great pics guys!
CWO be sure to get a pipe, jet, and air box mod on that Z as soon as possible!</end quote></div>
After considering all options I have decided against the Rekluse especially since they don't respond to email questions. A simpler and cheaper way to add more engine control, power and ease of clutch work is to lower the gearing. Not popular for most because they miss the fanfare of a tall gear and lugging power on take off which allows you to spin the wheel more and feel more G-force as the bike strains to quickly reach input velocity in a shorter distance. Lower gearing multiplies the engines power over a longer distance so the feeling of G-force is not as noticeable, this also increases traction while decreasing the chance of engine stall, as lower gearing effectively increases rotational energy E=M*C2, just like a larger flywheel only without the weight. The only loss is top end speed (75 mph) which no wise rider would want to reach on the trails anyway, so I will now opt for a 1 tooth drop on the countershaft and 3 tooth increase on the rear sprocket. This will increase applied power by 15% but drop top speed by 20 MPH.
I installed a Raceway twist throttle which works perfectly and removes the repetitive injury stress common with thumb throttles. I can understand why some riders don't like the twist throttles as the twist throttle requires a greater arc of movement as thumb throttles require less, once againe giving the illusion of faster response at the expense of high loads on the thumb joint eventually resulting in trigger joint syndrome.
I also installed the Dynojet kit last night installing the new needle jet clipped at the 3rd position with a 160 Main jet that replaced the 130 MJ. What I don't like is the air box lid removal which as I suspected causes way too much pressure wave noise which leads to the head of the rider. I plan to drill my usual 1 inch side holes 30-40 depending on the jetting but will allow sound waves to leave at right angles away from the rider and still provide open air box performance.
Great pics guys!
CWO be sure to get a pipe, jet, and air box mod on that Z as soon as possible!</end quote></div>
After considering all options I have decided against the Rekluse especially since they don't respond to email questions. A simpler and cheaper way to add more engine control, power and ease of clutch work is to lower the gearing. Not popular for most because they miss the fanfare of a tall gear and lugging power on take off which allows you to spin the wheel more and feel more G-force as the bike strains to quickly reach input velocity in a shorter distance. Lower gearing multiplies the engines power over a longer distance so the feeling of G-force is not as noticeable, this also increases traction while decreasing the chance of engine stall, as lower gearing effectively increases rotational energy E=M*C2, just like a larger flywheel only without the weight. The only loss is top end speed (75 mph) which no wise rider would want to reach on the trails anyway, so I will now opt for a 1 tooth drop on the countershaft and 3 tooth increase on the rear sprocket. This will increase applied power by 15% but drop top speed by 20 MPH.
I installed a Raceway twist throttle which works perfectly and removes the repetitive injury stress common with thumb throttles. I can understand why some riders don't like the twist throttles as the twist throttle requires a greater arc of movement as thumb throttles require less, once againe giving the illusion of faster response at the expense of high loads on the thumb joint eventually resulting in trigger joint syndrome.
I also installed the Dynojet kit last night installing the new needle jet clipped at the 3rd position with a 160 Main jet that replaced the 130 MJ. What I don't like is the air box lid removal which as I suspected causes way too much pressure wave noise which leads to the head of the rider. I plan to drill my usual 1 inch side holes 30-40 depending on the jetting but will allow sound waves to leave at right angles away from the rider and still provide open air box performance.
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