how would u properlyh breakin a ltr 450?

 

The first thing I did when I unloaded mine off the truck was took it down the road just as fast it would go and haven't let up on it since. The sales rep took me how Suzuki says to break it in then told me if it was him he would run the **** out of it while it was still under warranty because by the time you get done breaking it in the way they say to for as many hours most will never run it hard until it is out of warranty

 

Ride it like U stole it!!!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: JkAss

Ride it like U stole it!!!</end quote></div>


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RUN the **** out of it. I do this with all my engines. they run harder.

 

I pretty much break all my engines in the same way KINGQUAD450 does. You get the most air through the engine at WOT. This will force the rings out against the bore and seat them well.

One thing to remember is to let the engine warm up to operating temp before you start a good break in run.

 

exactly

 

well desert viper told me to do this with my new grizz. when i get it
"Honda Crusher,
I've read the "run it hard" claims, and even tried it once, and wont do that again. I've usually just kept it to less than 1/2 throttle for the first hundred miles, and have had good results with dozens of new quads broke-in that way over the years. I've had four Kawasaki v-twins, and three of those were broke-in as above, but the fourth was broken in like it says on (I believe) the mototune web site. That proceedure has been quoted many times on this web site, and I'm sure someone can post a link. Basically it says to give it wide open throttle for short periods of time, followed by very low throttle while coasting to a stop, and to repeat that multiple times until its broke-in. Funny thing was, ... that was the only Kawi v-twin I've ever owned that had piston blow by problems, and would put white smoke out the exhaust for a few minutes on each cold start up, until it warmed up. I really don't think the hard break-in helped that engine out any at all. It certainly did not make more power than a conventional break-in.

Most recently I broke in a Grizzly 700 a little differently as well. I tried a process called "heat cycling", where you start the brand new engine and ride slow and easy at less than 1/4 throttle. Vary the engine speed and only ride long enough to get the engine well into its normal operating temperature. I rode for twelve minutes, then parked the quad in the garage and let it cool completely (overnight). I then repeated the process twice more, for a total of three twelve minute long "heat cycles" at less than 1/4 throttle, followed by complete cool down to room temperature after each heat cycle. Then I rode the quad for the next 7.5 engine hours at less than 1/2 throttle, afterwhich I considered it well broken in. I still avoided sustained full throttle for the first 10 engine hours, but think it is acceptable to do brief full throttle use after the first 7.5 hours.

When I compare how this 2007 Grizzly 700 runs, compared to our other 2007 Grizzly 700, this "heat cycle" engine break-in proceedure may have actually made a difference. It is hard to say for sure why this Grizzly runs better than the other Grizzly, but it certainly does. We have two identical Grizzly 700s, with all stock airbox, air filter (both of which are clean), and stock exhaust. Both had stock tires, at the same 4.5 psi air pressure, and were tested on the same gravel road at roughly the same temperature. The Grizzly 700 that I broke-in with the usual "just keep it less than 1/2 throttle for a hundred miles" approach has a top speed of 64 mph. The Grizzly 700 that I broke-in with strictly followed heat cycles has a top speed of 68 mph, and feels like it runs stronger as well. Its hard to say if this is from engine break-in, or just the difference from one Grizzly to the next as they come off the production line.

I know, its not scientific, but given my experience with the run it hard approach vs the structured heat cycle break-in, I certainly don't plan on the run it hard approach again."

 

Here's that link to the MotoMan Break-in Method, which is essentially to run it hard in the first 20 miles. His main point is that new engines now have much finer cylinder honing than in the past, so to achieve the best possible ring seal they (the rings) must be pressed hard against the cylinder wall in the short time before the honing pattern is gone. Apparently this smoothing of the cylinder wall occurs in about the first 20 miles on a new engine whether it is run easy or hard. While MotoMan is talking specifically about motorcycle engines, he does go on to say " ... these principles apply to all 4-stroke engines ".

 

I think the "let it warm up" thing is most important.
In stock form, the above works well. Put a Weisco in it and you'll need a more careful break in.