can i safely block off the injector by removing the 2 screws and taking the metal assy from the outside and just pulling out the gear. the replacing the assy and capping off the line?

thanks
victor

 

You must remove the clutch cover and remove the black plastic piece that drives the pump.

 

LT80, thanksf ro the reply.
please see the pic.

i want to make sure i understand you correct.
are you talking about #13?

i removed item#1 and then with needle nose, pulled out #13. i had to apply reverse pressure with the needle nose(if that makes sense)
i see that this diagram has item # 14 which i did not see come out. ill go fishing for it and see if its there.
thanks again


diagram

 

#11 and it's inside the cover on the end of the crankshaft. The cover must come off to get to it. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

ah, i see.
will i have to secure anthing when i take the cover off or is it simply remove cover and then remove gear?
never been inside bottom casing, only top end.
thanks

 

Getting the case off is the hard part.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Once off, the black plastic thing (#11) pulls off the end of the crank with ease.
Then ya put the cover back on.
Just so there is no confusion, the cover I'm talking about is the whole side cover. Not where the pull start would go.

Once inside, you should service the clutchs.
ie:Front: Remove the front clutch. Remove the cover. Clean and check the rollers for flat spots. Check the roller plate and the hub (variator) for grooves and uneven wear. A q-tip of grease is all that's needed on each roller.
Rear clutch: Remove the rear clutch. Lightly scuff the 3 contact pads with a #80 grit sandpaper to break the glaze. Inspect the hub for excessive grooving. Inspect the rear bearings (spin w/finger to check). If lumps, grinding, etc. bearings are bad.

 

LT80, thanks for the tip. i will gut it tomorrow and see what i can learn.
before i do that, should i be cautious of anything in particular when taking clutches or anything else off?

must i watch for shooting springs ect?

when checking rollers, do i do it while they are on?

when removing rear clutch, will it fall apart upon removal or will i need to dissasemble after removing it?

im sure a lot of these ?'s will be answered when i take it apart but dont want to have extra pieces like i always have when assembling things[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

thanks LT80

btw, ill try and take pics of the job so others that have never done it can at least have a visual of what to expect in case a service manual is not present.

victor in Austin

 

Your welcome Victor. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
No springs or anything else going to pop off in pieces.LOL
The rollers are in the hub (variator). When you pull it off the rollers will turn sideways. Don't think it was running that way. During the front install, make sure the lil keyway is aligned with the key.
The rear has pieces parts that will come off. This is no big deal. Just see how they come off or use the fiche.You'll see.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

thanks again. I took it all apart and you wanted me to take off the whole side didnt you? that was FUN getting off. had to tear off lots of pieces but got to it.
i didnt take the clutches off since i didnt have time nor did i want to screw it up although it wouldnt have been too hard.
it was working penty fine before and has not been ridden much. i should have but nah.

ok, now it starts up fine but am having mid throttle and higher issues. low end is perfect.
seems like its not getting the gas it needs.
i did take apart the petcock and clean it out well.

did notice that the needle i used from the carb kit was a different # j17y i think and the original is j176j3


can i put the reed cage in upsidedown? dont remember which way it came out...

i did take the oil gear off and just plugged the hole where the oil tank line went in.
i put the oil pump back on since i dont have a block plate.

am i suppose do cut the line from the pump to the carb or leave it ias is?

im running the yamalube since thats all i have now and am doing a 40:1

will trouble shoot more later.

 

well, not sure what is up. looking at the parts diagramparts diagram
i saw that i was not using gasket #19 under E ring so put one in there. it was very thin and was in the carb rebuild kit i bought. i placed the ering on the 2nd notch from the top.

that is when i was having trouble getting it to throttle without bogging down past hafl throttle.

removed #19 and just put in the needle and ering and fired it up and worked.
it was pretty thin and cannot imagine it did much a difference. i guess with #19 on it would have made it like having the ering on notch 3 from the top.

might something have gotten stuck while it was in there?

after taking #19 off i ran at WOT for a few blocks and turned it off. plug check showed it a tad bit lean(ashy almost white instead if brown toasty color)thats with the 97.5

any thoughts?
thanks
victor