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Manual for 2000 King Quad LTF-300 4WD

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Old 03-19-2008, 06:00 PM
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Default Manual for 2000 King Quad LTF-300 4WD

Can anyone help me with finding and electronic version of the service manual. I need to replace and adjust my front and rear brakes and don't know how to. Any help you could be would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 03-24-2008, 09:44 AM
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Default Manual for 2000 King Quad LTF-300 4WD

come on guys, help a brother out.
 
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Old 04-28-2008, 12:33 PM
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Default Manual for 2000 King Quad LTF-300 4WD

someone has to know something. or does someone have an old one they want to sell?
 
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Old 04-29-2008, 10:19 AM
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Default Manual for 2000 King Quad LTF-300 4WD

Don't know how much adjusting there is to do. Do you have the hydraulic drums in the front and the single drum in the back like my 95 does. If you do, just take them apart and clean them really good, maybe replace the springs and the shoes. I have no brakes on my kq300 at all. I have gotten so used to using the engine to slow me down. Now, this might be a different story if were I lived wasn't so flat, LOL. Putting it in diff lock will slow you down to almost nothing while going down a more difficult incline. The manual, don't know about electronically, but I know you can buy one on ebay for about thirty bucks. I myself have not gotten one yet. Do your brakes work at all right now??? The o-rings that are on those drums are extrememly large and even though they are supposed to be "sealed", after time in the water and mud, debris gets into the drum. There is a drain bolt that will help with letting any of that debris out, but will still always have to be maintained more than most quads brakes will. These are great machines, but do have that one draw back of problems with the braking system. Unfortunetely when I tried to take my rear drain bolt out, it severed itself and now I will have to drill an easy out or something like that. My fronts had locked up because of the debris causing the return springs to corrode and not allow for the shoes to return to it's dis-engaged position. So after removing the shoes, I noticed that the brake cylinder's top (where the screws to remove the top) had been scraped to flat, meaning there is no way to remove the top to prime with hydraulic fluid. So looks like I am gonna drop about five hundred for a new master cylinder (brake), new shoes and labor. Oh well, the price of fun never ceases. Good luck, let me know if you figure anything out on adjusting those brakes. Sorry such a long post.
 
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