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1988 Suzuki LT-4WD No Spark!!!!!

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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 10:21 PM
  #181  
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Originally Posted by Kenm

1* That is how you measured this before isn't it? At the CDI connector.

2* The coil output will be AC too, my idea is to baseline these voltages. Then we'll know what is good and what is bad. You will still read voltage when the starter is operating (that's how the engine starts).

3*Ideally we would get voltages both in no start and start conditions during engine cranking speeds, that way we would be comparing apples to apples.

4*The cranking test you did points to the CDI being bad, it just bothers me that 2 different DVM's pointed to a bad pick up coil.

5*So, your tests look like the CDI is bad, it's your decision on how to proceed... These tests will be good but don't take any risks...

6*BTY Good Work!

1. I've tested so many things so many ways, I don't remember any of it! Must be because there is never any black and white answers yet?????

2. Makes sense to me. And, I looked at the wiring diagram, and I now see that the voltage is AC @ the CDI not DC as I said before.

3. Okay... cranking it is!

4. That bothers me about the pick-up coil, as well. I just hope my DVM picks up such a small amount of voltage at the pick-up. It seems to me that this is why I started using the analog meter..... it had a lower scale. We will see tomorrow :-)

5. If I had a choice, I would rather the CDI be bad for 2 reasons. The CDI is about $50 cheaper than a stator/pick-up coil combo. Plus, and this is a BIG PLUS..... I won't have to dismantle the crankcase again! (and buy another $22 gasket!)

Trust me... I will be VERY careful doing this testing!

One more thing...... the gentleman that had me use the 50u setting on the analog meter, did so to show if the pick-up (which he called a pulser) was actually pulsing. He said using this setting was a poor man's megger. Sound familiar?
I set it up as instructed, and indeed, the needle pulsed as I turned the engine over with the electric starter.

Knowing that, I still want/need to do all this testing that you are suggesting. I have to be absolutely sure which part I need.. whether it is the stator/pick-up combo, or a new CDI.

Thanks again Ken!
Goodnight, my friend! I'll keep you posted as soon as I get some testing done in the morning.

Jackie
 
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Old Nov 8, 2009 | 11:42 PM
  #182  
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One more thing...... the gentleman that had me use the 50u setting on the analog meter, did so to show if the pick-up (which he called a pulser) was actually pulsing. He said using this setting was a poor man's megger.


I think he's a poor mans electrician
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 11:04 AM
  #183  
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All the following results are using the 20VAC scale:

This first set of tests had the voltages changing VERY quickly up and down?
Pickup cold crank: .130-.180 / idle: .60-.68
power source: cold crank 2.98-3.19 / idle:5.30-5.80
CDI output: cold crank: 11.00-14.00????? / idle: .70-.90

Now hold your horses re: that off the wall CDI output..... LMAO!

While checking these wires while the bike was running, a few times I felt it miss when I had the group of connectors in my hand near the stator. So, I REALLY twisted each and every wire around. I found a wire that I could consistantly make the bike faulter. Then I practically folded the wire in half and the bike died. I did this several times and each time the bike quit. I did an ohms test, and it was all over the place as I flexed the wire right at the connector. Guess what wire! The same wire that the connector wasn't fully engaging a while back.. that damn green/white out of the pickup!!!! It was so very close to (almost inside) the connector that I didn't have a chance to repair it, so I cut it out and hard wired it. So, this could or could not be the problem, but at the moment it was a problem. I tested the wire again and saw a big difference as the voltages were more stable. (further testing of the pickup will now have to be done @ the harness side near the CDI)

New testing- 20VAC / hard wired g/y wire and bike warm:
pickup: crank .16-.18 / running .41-.43
power source: crank 5.40-5.67 / running 5.70-5.81
CDI output: crank 1.25-1.56 / running .76-.94 (why lower?)

I'll keep trying your testing, 'cause I'm NOT a total believer yet! LMAO!

what do you think?????
Jackie
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 01:12 PM
  #184  
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I found a wire that I could consistantly make the bike faulter. Then I practically folded the wire in half and the bike died. I did this several times and each time the bike quit. I did an ohms test, and it was all over the place as I flexed the wire right at the connector. Guess what wire! The same wire that the connector wasn't fully engaging a while back.. that damn green/white out of the pickup!!!!

If it was me I would just drive it, and if it doesn't fail then you fixed it. Which it sounds like you did!!!!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 01:30 PM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by Kenm

If it was me I would just drive it, and if it doesn't fail then you fixed it. Which it sounds like you did!!!!

Why am I NOT happy and jumping for joy about this? Is it because I found so many other things that didn't test properly? Those things that were repaired, and hoping it was fixed, and then BOOM..... another no spark situation?????

I want this over with. I want to be able to put the front fenders back on and put the winch back on. But, every time I put if back together... GGGGRRRRrrrrrrrr!!!!!

Oh, I need to get new CV boots put on too. It would be much easier w/o the front cowl/fenders.

Ken, convince me that this is fixed! HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

Thanks,
Jackie
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 01:38 PM
  #186  
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Well, when you can consistently flex a wire (that comes from your pick-up coil) and your engine quits, and this was a circuit that tested bad a couple of times before. Well, I'm convinced.

You can examine the wire section you cut out. Cut off the insulation and look at the copper.

Did you solder the replacement wire in and use heatshrink?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 01:47 PM
  #187  
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Originally Posted by Kenm
Well, when you can consistently flex a wire (that comes from your pick-up coil) and your engine quits, and this was a circuit that tested bad a couple of times before. Well, I'm convinced.

You can examine the wire section you cut out. Cut off the insulation and look at the copper.

Did you solder the replacement wire in and use heatshrink?
Hey, that's a great idea about checking the wire that I cut out.

No, I didn't not do my usual splice, solder and heat shrink yet. I honestly considered replacing the waterproof connector with new connectors. However, probably just hard wiring would be less problematic in the future, right? And, if I ever need to take the stator out again, I can always just cut the wires. Let's just hope that I never have to do that again!

Ken, this has been a real PITA problem, but you made it fun (almost! LMAO)
Thanks again,
Jackie
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 04:10 PM
  #188  
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What did that wire look like?

I'm waiting for your next thread:

1988 Suzuki LT-4WD NO CV BOOTS!!!!!
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 08:27 PM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by Kenm
What did that wire look like?

I'm waiting for your next thread:

1988 Suzuki LT-4WD NO CV BOOTS!!!!!
I honestly don't think the wire looked that bad, so it must have been the connector itself that was not making good contact. Time will tell!

The bike ran and started well today, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Re: the CV boots: there is NO WAY I am going to try that. Besides, I don't have the proper tools to pull the 1/2 shafts out. No way, not me! LOL! I spoke to the shop and I can have them do it for a little over $100 for both sides. I can use the money I was saving for a either new CDI or stator, whichever proved to be malfunctioning.

After the CV boots are installed I will drive it for another week, and if there are no problems, I wll put it back together, hopefully for the last time!!!!!

You WILL hear me, all the way up at your house, if I get a no spark condition again! LMAO!

I forgot to tell you: To appease the ATV Gods, I fixed my speedometer!!!!!! (perhaps this helped???????)

Thanks so much for all your help!
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 08:57 PM
  #190  
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Originally Posted by AdirondackGal
I honestly don't think the wire looked that bad, so it must have been the connector itself that was not making good contact. Time will tell!

The bike ran and started well today, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

* You probably already know this but riding with bad CV boots will trash your CV joints...

Re: the CV boots: there is NO WAY I am going to try that. Besides, I don't have the proper tools to pull the 1/2 shafts out. No way, not me! LOL! I spoke to the shop and I can have them do it for a little over $100 for both sides. I can use the money I was saving for a either new CDI or stator, whichever proved to be malfunctioning.

After the CV boots are installed I will drive it for another week, and if there are no problems, I wll put it back together, hopefully for the last time!!!!!

You WILL hear me, all the way up at your house, if I get a no spark condition again! LMAO!

* I don't doubt this!!!

I forgot to tell you: To appease the ATV Gods, I fixed my speedometer!!!!!! (perhaps this helped???????)

* Well, I'm sure that's what made the difference!

Thanks so much for all your help!
Jackie
Well, you look pretty dam happy
 
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