1988 Suzuki LT-4WD No Spark!!!!!
#21
07-24-2009, 11:43 AM
That bike looks brand new! Those tires are not stock though, how many miles?
Well then here goes, hopefully others will chime in!
Since we're already at the CDI let's make a list of things needed for a spark and start with the easy stuff.
Always inspect the pins when you unplug a connector. If you see corrosion clean with scotchbrite.
1. The black/white wire must be grounded. Break the connection at the CDI and ohm from there to the neg battery terminal.(flex wire and monitor reading)
2. The black /yellow must not be at ground. You have the procedure for this.
3. The white/blue wire must have continuity to the coil. You can ohm this.(flex wire and monitor reading) Also ohm to ground.(neg Batt.
4. The black/white wire from the coil must be grounded. You can ohm that from the coil to neg terminal of batt. (flex wire and monitor reading)
5. Forget this one for now, since they have replaced it already.
The black and the blue (pink and brown at the CDI) from the magneto need to put out voltage, we don't know how much. If you can get your leads into the connector somehow without breaking the connection and record this voltage (between the wires) while cranking the engine it would be helpfull. If you can't, don't force it.
6. The black/red and green (brown and green at CDI) need to put out a pulse from the pick up. Don't know how much.
7. Check continuity on wires between pick up to CDI and magneto and CDI(flex wire and monitor reading). Also ohm each wire to ground. (neg batt terminal). See # 5 and 6 for colors.
For numbers 5 and 6 this would be handy: CM483 - 88-98 Suzuki LTF250, 87-98 LT4WD, 91-98 LT4WDX Repair & Maintenance manual.
If you plan on keeping your bike for another 21 years it would be a good investment!
Well, that ought to keep you busy for a while!
P.S (flex wire and monitor reading)= If reading changes then there is a problem.
Well then here goes, hopefully others will chime in!
Since we're already at the CDI let's make a list of things needed for a spark and start with the easy stuff.
Always inspect the pins when you unplug a connector. If you see corrosion clean with scotchbrite.
1. The black/white wire must be grounded. Break the connection at the CDI and ohm from there to the neg battery terminal.(flex wire and monitor reading)
2. The black /yellow must not be at ground. You have the procedure for this.
3. The white/blue wire must have continuity to the coil. You can ohm this.(flex wire and monitor reading) Also ohm to ground.(neg Batt.
4. The black/white wire from the coil must be grounded. You can ohm that from the coil to neg terminal of batt. (flex wire and monitor reading)
5. Forget this one for now, since they have replaced it already.
The black and the blue (pink and brown at the CDI) from the magneto need to put out voltage, we don't know how much. If you can get your leads into the connector somehow without breaking the connection and record this voltage (between the wires) while cranking the engine it would be helpfull. If you can't, don't force it.
6. The black/red and green (brown and green at CDI) need to put out a pulse from the pick up. Don't know how much.
7. Check continuity on wires between pick up to CDI and magneto and CDI(flex wire and monitor reading). Also ohm each wire to ground. (neg batt terminal). See # 5 and 6 for colors.
For numbers 5 and 6 this would be handy: CM483 - 88-98 Suzuki LTF250, 87-98 LT4WD, 91-98 LT4WDX Repair & Maintenance manual.
If you plan on keeping your bike for another 21 years it would be a good investment!
Well, that ought to keep you busy for a while!
P.S (flex wire and monitor reading)= If reading changes then there is a problem.
#22
07-24-2009, 07:12 PM
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The ATV has been running and starting perfectly for a few days now. Every time I get near it, I try to start it and it has been starting nicely. Until tonight!!!!! No spark again! UGH!!!!!
I am going to print all your tests, and hopefully, Sunday I can get a couple of hours to work on it uninterrupted. By the looks of this last post of yours, I will need at least a few hours to do all of that! LOL!
Thanks for your time, Kenm.. I'll be in touch when the test results are in!
Jackie
#24
07-24-2009, 10:04 PM
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Wow Ken.... your quad looks new too! The only difference I can see if your rear rack is different. Have you owned the ATV since new?
I see you have a plow attachment on the front. I switched to a winch instead of a manual plow, and I love it!
VERY nice Zuki!!!!!
Have a great weekend!
Jackie
I see you have a plow attachment on the front. I switched to a winch instead of a manual plow, and I love it!
VERY nice Zuki!!!!!
Have a great weekend!
Jackie
#25
07-25-2009, 10:27 AM
Wow Ken.... your quad looks new too! The only difference I can see if your rear rack is different. Have you owned the ATV since new?
I see you have a plow attachment on the front. I switched to a winch instead of a manual plow, and I love it!
VERY nice Zuki!!!!!
Have a great weekend!
Jackie
I see you have a plow attachment on the front. I switched to a winch instead of a manual plow, and I love it!
VERY nice Zuki!!!!!
Have a great weekend!
Jackie
I bought it about 10 years ago from someone who just used it to plow his driveway, so it came with the plow. It's hard to find a good used ATV, a lot of people think they're submarines! I don't use it though, I use a snowblower. My driveway is only 300 feet long ha ha.
My front rack is different than yours too, maybe I have a 1989....
Just checked and my serial No. has the "J" code, so it is a 1988.
Happy Troubleshooting
Ken
#26
07-26-2009, 08:21 PM
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#27
07-27-2009, 12:05 AM
Hi Jackie, those guests have a heck of a nerve showing up in the middle of this emergency! Ha,Ha.
Just to keep everything organized lets use this post for troubleshooting, when you test something just do a quote on this post and write your findings under the appropriate number.
As long as you are going to be unplugging connectors you should inspect and clean them. If you see corrosion on male/female pins clean with scotch brite, emery cloth, or something. I would also use a contact cleaner such as this CRC CONTACT CLEANER 2000 PRECISION CLEANER 2140 CRC CHEMICALS USA on every connector you unplug even if it looks ok.
0. If you are still in a no start condition you can unplug (if you can unplug only this wire) the black yellow at the CDI and try to start, if it does start use your gas shutoff to stop engine. It will take a few minutes.
1. The black/white wire must be grounded. Break the connection at the CDI and ohm from there to the neg battery terminal.(flex wire and monitor reading)
2. The black/yellow wire must be high. To troubleshoot unplug black/yellow connector at CDI, connect test leads from harness side of wire to neg terminal of batt. With ignition on( don't start engine) you should read infinite, when off or kill switch on reading should be 0 ohms.
3. The white/blue wire must have continuity to the coil. You can ohm this.(flex wire and monitor reading) Also ohm to ground.(neg Batt).
4. The black/white wire from the coil must be grounded. You can ohm that from the coil to neg terminal of batt. (flex wire and monitor reading)
5. Forget this one for now, since they have replaced it already.
The black and the blue (pink and brown at the CDI) from the magneto need to put out voltage.
6. Forget this one for now. The black/red and green (brown and green at CDI) need to put out a pulse from the pick up.
7. Check continuity on wires between pick up to CDI and magneto and CDI(flex wire and monitor reading). Also ohm each wire to ground. (neg batt terminal). See # 5 and 6 for colors.
P.S (flex wire and monitor reading)= If reading changes then there is a problem.
Good Luck
Ken
Just to keep everything organized lets use this post for troubleshooting, when you test something just do a quote on this post and write your findings under the appropriate number.
As long as you are going to be unplugging connectors you should inspect and clean them. If you see corrosion on male/female pins clean with scotch brite, emery cloth, or something. I would also use a contact cleaner such as this CRC CONTACT CLEANER 2000 PRECISION CLEANER 2140 CRC CHEMICALS USA on every connector you unplug even if it looks ok.
0. If you are still in a no start condition you can unplug (if you can unplug only this wire) the black yellow at the CDI and try to start, if it does start use your gas shutoff to stop engine. It will take a few minutes.
1. The black/white wire must be grounded. Break the connection at the CDI and ohm from there to the neg battery terminal.(flex wire and monitor reading)
2. The black/yellow wire must be high. To troubleshoot unplug black/yellow connector at CDI, connect test leads from harness side of wire to neg terminal of batt. With ignition on( don't start engine) you should read infinite, when off or kill switch on reading should be 0 ohms.
3. The white/blue wire must have continuity to the coil. You can ohm this.(flex wire and monitor reading) Also ohm to ground.(neg Batt).
4. The black/white wire from the coil must be grounded. You can ohm that from the coil to neg terminal of batt. (flex wire and monitor reading)
5. Forget this one for now, since they have replaced it already.
The black and the blue (pink and brown at the CDI) from the magneto need to put out voltage.
6. Forget this one for now. The black/red and green (brown and green at CDI) need to put out a pulse from the pick up.
7. Check continuity on wires between pick up to CDI and magneto and CDI(flex wire and monitor reading). Also ohm each wire to ground. (neg batt terminal). See # 5 and 6 for colors.
P.S (flex wire and monitor reading)= If reading changes then there is a problem.
Good Luck
Ken
#28
07-27-2009, 09:53 PM
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#29
07-31-2009, 05:49 PM
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Hi Jackie, those guests have a heck of a nerve showing up in the middle of this emergency! Ha,Ha.
Just to keep everything organized lets use this post for troubleshooting, when you test something just do a quote on this post and write your findings under the appropriate number.
As long as you are going to be unplugging connectors you should inspect and clean them. If you see corrosion on male/female pins clean with scotch brite, emery cloth, or something. I would also use a contact cleaner such as this CRC CONTACT CLEANER 2000 PRECISION CLEANER 2140 CRC CHEMICALS USA on every connector you unplug even if it looks ok.
0. If you are still in a no start condition you can unplug (if you can unplug only this wire) the black yellow at the CDI and try to start, if it does start use your gas shutoff to stop engine. It will take a few minutes.
1. The black/white wire must be grounded. Break the connection at the CDI and ohm from there to the neg battery terminal.(flex wire and monitor reading)
2. The black/yellow wire must be high. To troubleshoot unplug black/yellow connector at CDI, connect test leads from harness side of wire to neg terminal of batt. With ignition on( don't start engine) you should read infinite, when off or kill switch on reading should be 0 ohms.
3. The white/blue wire must have continuity to the coil. You can ohm this.(flex wire and monitor reading) Also ohm to ground.(neg Batt).
4. The black/white wire from the coil must be grounded. You can ohm that from the coil to neg terminal of batt. (flex wire and monitor reading)
5. Forget this one for now, since they have replaced it already.
The black and the blue (pink and brown at the CDI) from the magneto need to put out voltage.
6. Forget this one for now. The black/red and green (brown and green at CDI) need to put out a pulse from the pick up.
7. Check continuity on wires between pick up to CDI and magneto and CDI(flex wire and monitor reading). Also ohm each wire to ground. (neg batt terminal). See # 5 and 6 for colors.
P.S (flex wire and monitor reading)= If reading changes then there is a problem.
Good Luck
Ken
Just to keep everything organized lets use this post for troubleshooting, when you test something just do a quote on this post and write your findings under the appropriate number.
As long as you are going to be unplugging connectors you should inspect and clean them. If you see corrosion on male/female pins clean with scotch brite, emery cloth, or something. I would also use a contact cleaner such as this CRC CONTACT CLEANER 2000 PRECISION CLEANER 2140 CRC CHEMICALS USA on every connector you unplug even if it looks ok.
0. If you are still in a no start condition you can unplug (if you can unplug only this wire) the black yellow at the CDI and try to start, if it does start use your gas shutoff to stop engine. It will take a few minutes.
1. The black/white wire must be grounded. Break the connection at the CDI and ohm from there to the neg battery terminal.(flex wire and monitor reading)
2. The black/yellow wire must be high. To troubleshoot unplug black/yellow connector at CDI, connect test leads from harness side of wire to neg terminal of batt. With ignition on( don't start engine) you should read infinite, when off or kill switch on reading should be 0 ohms.
3. The white/blue wire must have continuity to the coil. You can ohm this.(flex wire and monitor reading) Also ohm to ground.(neg Batt).
4. The black/white wire from the coil must be grounded. You can ohm that from the coil to neg terminal of batt. (flex wire and monitor reading)
5. Forget this one for now, since they have replaced it already.
The black and the blue (pink and brown at the CDI) from the magneto need to put out voltage.
6. Forget this one for now. The black/red and green (brown and green at CDI) need to put out a pulse from the pick up.
7. Check continuity on wires between pick up to CDI and magneto and CDI(flex wire and monitor reading). Also ohm each wire to ground. (neg batt terminal). See # 5 and 6 for colors.
P.S (flex wire and monitor reading)= If reading changes then there is a problem.
Good Luck
Ken
1. checks out fine
2. .002 ohms w/ kill switch on
3. I don't understand this test, but from the connection to the coil, the wire checks out fine.
4. checks out good
5. -
6. -
7. I have to check the manual since I don't see a pink and brown wire????????
UGH... now what, Ken? :-)
Thanks,
Jackie
#30
07-31-2009, 10:52 PM
As long as you are going to be unplugging connectors you should inspect and clean them. If you see corrosion on male/female pins clean with scotch brite, emery cloth, or something. I would also use a contact cleaner such as this CRC CONTACT CLEANER 2000 PRECISION CLEANER 2140 CRC CHEMICALS USA on every connector you unplug even if it looks ok.
How did this go?
0. If you are still in a no start condition you can unplug (if you can unplug only this wire) the black yellow at the CDI and try to start, if it does start use your gas shutoff to stop engine. It will take a few minutes.
Did you try this?
1. The black/white wire must be grounded. Break the connection at the CDI and ohm from there to the neg battery terminal.(flex wire and monitor reading)
How many ohms?
How much variation when flexed?
2. The black/yellow wire must be high. To troubleshoot unplug black/yellow connector at CDI, connect test leads from harness side of wire to neg terminal of batt. With ignition on( don't start engine) you should read infinite, when off or kill switch on reading should be 0 ohms.
How many ohms with kill switch in run position?
How much variation when flexed?
You reported .002 ohms? Be careful if your meter is autoranging that it is still in the ohms scale and not kohms.
3. The white/blue wire must have continuity to the coil (from CDI).
How many ohms across coil (black/white to white/blue) at coil.
How many ohms from cdi white/blue wire (harness side) to ground? How much variation when wires flexed?
4. N.A.
5. Forget this one for now, since they have replaced it already.
The black and the blue (pink and brown at the CDI) from the magneto need to put out voltage.
6. Forget this one for now. The black/red and green (brown and green at CDI) need to put out a pulse from the pick up.
7. Check continuity on wires between pick up to CDI and magneto and CDI(flex wire and monitor reading). Also ohm each wire to ground. (neg batt terminal). See # 5 and 6 for colors.
Pink and brown(2 wires) at cdi should be black and blue(2 wires) in the harness.
Ground= Negative battery terminal.
Well, after all this stuff checks out we'll move on to the magneto... Since it's an intermittent problem the wiring/connections are the first suspects. Plus pretty much everything else has been replaced...
How did this go?
0. If you are still in a no start condition you can unplug (if you can unplug only this wire) the black yellow at the CDI and try to start, if it does start use your gas shutoff to stop engine. It will take a few minutes.
Did you try this?
1. The black/white wire must be grounded. Break the connection at the CDI and ohm from there to the neg battery terminal.(flex wire and monitor reading)
How many ohms?
How much variation when flexed?
2. The black/yellow wire must be high. To troubleshoot unplug black/yellow connector at CDI, connect test leads from harness side of wire to neg terminal of batt. With ignition on( don't start engine) you should read infinite, when off or kill switch on reading should be 0 ohms.
How many ohms with kill switch in run position?
How much variation when flexed?
You reported .002 ohms? Be careful if your meter is autoranging that it is still in the ohms scale and not kohms.
3. The white/blue wire must have continuity to the coil (from CDI).
How many ohms across coil (black/white to white/blue) at coil.
How many ohms from cdi white/blue wire (harness side) to ground? How much variation when wires flexed?
4. N.A.
5. Forget this one for now, since they have replaced it already.
The black and the blue (pink and brown at the CDI) from the magneto need to put out voltage.
6. Forget this one for now. The black/red and green (brown and green at CDI) need to put out a pulse from the pick up.
7. Check continuity on wires between pick up to CDI and magneto and CDI(flex wire and monitor reading). Also ohm each wire to ground. (neg batt terminal). See # 5 and 6 for colors.
Pink and brown(2 wires) at cdi should be black and blue(2 wires) in the harness.
Ground= Negative battery terminal.
Well, after all this stuff checks out we'll move on to the magneto... Since it's an intermittent problem the wiring/connections are the first suspects. Plus pretty much everything else has been replaced...