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When Changing brakes on my Z400

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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 05:53 PM
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Default When Changing brakes on my Z400

So far I have my caliper tore off and the brake pads out. I am wondering, do I have to like bleed the line there to get the caliper to move down so I can put my new ones in or is it supposed to be extremely hard to clamp them down with my C-clamp? Also is it normal to find oil in the air filter compartment??? Cuz I opened it up so I could take my air filter out and clean it and there was a bunch of oil sitting in the bottom of that container....I never seen it like that before. I just changed the oil too, but this seems to be the dirty oil that was in it before I changed it.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 05:55 PM
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Oh yeah and Im changing the spark plug but where the hell is it on this thing....? Sorry Im new to this. Is it on the top under the gas tank maybe???
 
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Old Sep 5, 2009 | 08:37 PM
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Ok u guys take forever to get me an answer dang it. It's dark already so I figured it out myself a long time ago, lol. I just stomped on the brakes and then clamped it down....for some reason that helped loosen it. Anyway I got them on but had to pound them on to fit so they are really tight, hope that wont hurt it. I rode it around a while to kind of wear em in a little, seems ok. Oh I figured out the spark plug too, that was a bitch. Had to take the inner fenders and gas tank out just to get to it, wtf! They need to make that easier.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 12:53 AM
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you did not say front or back but i assume the front you should always bleed crack open bleeder screw on caliper using a 8 mm wrench attach a clear hose from bleeder screw into a container to catch old brake fluid as a partner applies pressure to brake lever (do not pump) crack open screw ,close screw before partner releases pressure on brake lever ,be sure to keep fluid up in reservoir do this until fluid is clean and no air bubbles. The best thing to do is buy a service manual .When you started you crack the bleeder screw open to realese pressure to push caliper in to make room for thicker pads it sounds like you maybe still need to do this good luck
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 12:57 AM
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you dont need to release the bleeder to push the piston in for thicker pads.

just press the piston in with a c-clamp.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 01:09 AM
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Yes I agree it sounds like the caliper does not want to budge and maybe not enough freeplay between rotor and pad
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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yeah the pistons can get pretty sticky over time.

my brand new caliper on my 230 got really tight after only a few months.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 07:46 PM
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It is the back brakes. I used a c-clamp to press it down but it didnt want to go in any farther. It was prolly sticking out about a little less than a 1/16" If I could get it in that much farther I could have slid them on without pounding them but it still worked just rode it like a bat outa hell today to wear em in a little and they should be fine. The rotor was turning fine just could hear the brake pads scraping on them a little bit but now they sound fine.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 08:13 PM
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do you still have the rear p brake assembly hooked up? that could be your problem they get hung up and chew up your pads and sometimes freeze up get a block off plate there like 10.00 bucks and get rid of all the p brake crap.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2009 | 09:27 PM
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WOW i totally forgot about that!!!

the bolt needs to be backed out a little if you still have it...
 
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