i have a 87 suzuki lt 230 atv. it was upside down in a ditch full of water.... and then sat in a garage for about 2 years.(yes it is horrible.... but didnt have the time and i didnt ever ride that one lol) sooo i finally got it out, and of course the oil drain plug cover had cracked due to water freezing in the bottom of it. since then i have stripped it down, put on a new oil cover and plug, new twist throttle, cleaned out and put new jets and main pilot in the carb, new spark plug, new oil filter, cleaned out oil strainer inside oil drain cover, put fresh oil in it, cleaned out gas tank and gas tank filter inside, checked the spark (it has spark) so i slapped the gas tank back on with gas in it. tried kicking it over and couldnt get it to start for nuthin. cant test compression because the hole/threads are alot smaller then my tester (might have to look at getting a attachment for it? ) but i put my finger over the spark plug hole and NO air/ compression coming out at all NONE.... so my question is what might be the problem? im guessing piston and rings?? and how do this? i have never done a new piston and rings (yet)... although mechanically inclined. thanks for any info and help.

i do have a few more things to try tomorrow but after that... im outa ideas. there are no cracks anywhere else (on the outside, that i see) and it is holding the oil - no leaks

extra info if needed: DG exhaust, k&n open air filter, stock engine, carb jets and pilots up 2 sizes from stock.

boy am i kickin myself in the butt for not doing all this the day it happened.... i guess it serves me right for being to lazy.....

 

well figured it out.... it was the damn bolt valve... (dunno the name for it) on the right, top of engine.... i hate that damn release valve.
now its runnin like a champ

new problem... i have a teather for it... except it doesnt work... it will start without the teather being in it, and there is no way to shut it down, any ideas what could be the problem there??? anyone.. (crickets in the background)

thanks for all the help and posts so far... rofl jk jk jk

 

tuble weeds tumble weeds everywhere, rollin over my post booooo

 

the bolt valve your talkin bout is the compression release so kids or girls can start it the hole shutting it off thing there has to be a wire some where and if you can find a random wire going to nothing run the quad ad touch it to a bare part of the frame (with no paint or rust on it) and if it dies you found your kill switch you can either keep it that way or wire up a switch. you decide

 

but ussualy the compression release will close it self once it kicks over once now that i think bout it idk did you get it running after you got the compression............. also hows the carb looking will it fire up if you put gas directly in the carb by a seringe (like for measuring paint) or somthing.

 

oh ya she is up and runnin... like i had said it was the compression release, after looking at some pictures on here and elsewhere... i noticed there should be a spriing on the rlease but mine doesnt have one, so that bolt just goes whatever way it wants, although while running, it wont move. i looked on a few diff parts fish sites and that compression release isnt even on there, on any of the diagrams.... so i dont think i could even get the spring if i wanted. if i had a better pic of just that up close, i could prolly fab somethin up for it though.

ya it runs fine now, and i got the kill/teather switch workin now again, it was a ground wire that was bad.

only one problem left now... (unless another one creeps up)

i have takin the carb apart several times now and i just cant seem to find the problem.... after about 20-40 seconds when i hook the gas up and turn the fuel on gas leaks out of the bottom drain tube, pouring out. each time i open the carb up i havent really found anything in there obstructing any jets ect.... so i dunno lol maybe ill try a rebuild kit and see if that does the trick.

thanks for the reply himsa!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

it sounds like the needle bearing is is stuck or the rubber is gone. If you know your way around a carb its the little thing connected to the floats. take it out (i wouldnt spray it with carb cleaner) cuz it could mess up the rubber tip that seals off the gas once the bowl is full.if the rubber is gone you need a new 1 if it doesnt slide easy spray it wit some WD and make sure theres no rust on it and hope for the best if not rebuild it..... and dont listen to dumb **** people that will say its pissing out fuel cuz there hose on the overflow tip cuz it shouldnt just pour out like in your case

 

MAN WTF.... thought i had it down to one problem.... so PO right now.

well back to 3 problems again, the carb that pours gas, that damn teather/kill switch, and the damn clutch boooooooooooooooooo

carb: got it apart right now... will tinker with it tomorrow, checked the floats and guess what? ~ they float lol no cracks in those. the needle still has the rubber peice on it, but i may just get a new one just incase its messed up. cuz the rubber peice doesnt look perfect, its a little bent just the slightest bit on the tip.

killswitch: back to square one with that...


clutch: took it for a little test drive, and even though i had the clutch pulled in the damn thing ALMOST moves likes the clutch level isnt pulled in... id say it still goes about 5 mph in first while clutch level is pulled... man im hopin thats not screwed $$$$$$$ will try adjusting cable all the way.... if that doesnt work i suppose i will have to crack it open and see whats up


im about ready to put a bullet in her and call it good

 

sounds like you got your hands full and doing exactly what i would do. with the kill switch if you have the title i would just leave it the 2 bare wires and just touch'em together but i wouldnt wit out a title.... what looks like hot wiring to "FBI agents" or rent a cops will bust your ***** for evrything...thats how my rm250 was

 

check oil in the crankcase if its significantlly low clutch will stick make sure clutch lever cable is free i have seen them get stretched and with the carb make sure the float is adjusted right if they are too high or low they either flood the motor or choke it