So I took the cover off and this is what I found. Was the timing chain too lose and did some damage? Also, can you tell from the picture of the rockers if they are still good? How do I know if my cam is shot?

 

judging by what i see. whoever sealed the valve cover use way too much RTV. you need too seriously clean that head. remove the cam and really clean it. i dont really see too much damage, rockers look worn but ok to use, cam i really cant tell because i can only see1 side of it but it looks like it needs cleaned. and sand the valve cover where it looks like the timing chain hit. just knock down the high points and you shaould be fine.

And it is important to remember when you go to reassemble, you only need to rough up the sealing surface with sandpaper and only use an 1/8th to 3/16 inch wide bead of RED RTV silicone around the outside perimeter and dont use too much.

i think you may have silicone in the engine block itself. A little silicone in there will definately fry your oil pump. i recommend a complete tear down and engine flush. pull the jug off without separating the head and split the engine cases. make sure there is no RTV in there. If you dont and there is RTV in there, it will cost a ton of money to fix your engine.

you may try drianing your oil and check to see if there is chunks in it if you dont want to split the case, or you could take your mag cover off and use a bright flashlight and check through the oil passage holes also.

go to this link to see what kind of damage will occur if the valve cover is sealed wrong.How-Not-To Seal Your Head - Suzuki LT230S Vault

 

I have been researching splitting the case. My concern is that it looks like I would need to spend around $200 for the specialty tools (based on the tools they used in the bottom end rebuild videos on rockymountainatvmc.com). Do you think from the pictures that it is warranted? And then if I am doing all that should I change the bearings and get my crank rebuilt ($150)? How do I know if they are still good? How can I tell if my oil pump is fried?

 

all you really need is a flywheel remover. all you need to pull of is the shifter side of the cases. when you split the cases you can use a dull flat screwdriver to pop them apart. your crank bearings should be ok. all you are doing is checking for chunks of RTV silicone.

to check the crank: when you slide the jug off, grab the piston connecting rod and try to wiggle it side to side, if there is play in it odds are it needs redone.

if there is chunks of RTV in your crank case odds are pretty good that its wiped out. the only sure way to see if its pumping is the start it and remove the valve inspection cap. if its spraying oil out the hole you'll be all right. remember if there is chunks in your crank case clean it out good, really good and start locating another oil pump.

 

So I tried to take the jug off yesterday. When I went to pull it off, it looks like the sleeve pulled half way out. Does that make sense? How could that have happened? Pic's to come.

P.s. thanks trailrider230s for being my personal mechanic!!

 

When you get to putting this thing back together please think about using something like this to seal up the cover.
Loctite 518 Anaerobic Gasket Maker 37394
Unlike RTV, this stuff won't harden up on the inside or outside of the cover.

Also when you adjust the valves make sure your on the compression stroke of the engine and not on the exhaust stroke.

 

holy crap i have never saw a sleeve come out like that. maybe its time to take the jug to an ATV shop?

PS hylton703: does that mean i can qualify for a $20.00 an hour advice fee?. lol. Its no prob man we gotta keep the 230's alive. Carry the tradition on brother!!!

 

There are two spots on the piston that are worn down. Would this be from the valves hitting the piston? What can you tell from this photo? (besides all that gasket crap EVERYWHERE)

 

well i have just recently taken my crankcase apart and just got it sealed, while im in there im replacing piston and valves, and i can honestly say my piston didnt look even close to that with the valve spots. i would prolly definitely replace that piston but as to why it looks like that i couldnt tell ya.