Have 2004 Suzuki Eiger 400 rebuilt carburator needing to know what is the adjustment for the pilot screw ? Put new carb kit pipe is turning red. Please help. THANKS

 

Not pilot but fuel/air screw that was under the brass cap right? Normal routine is to lightly seat the needle then back out 2.5 turns.

What you need to do is rejet the main jet to a 130-135. The Kiehin from suzuki is like 112 so close. Since you piped yours a new jet is needed. Just go to a decent motor shop and ask for a 135 main jet.

Heads up this is the same carb they used on Kawaski KLX dirt bikes and the Kawasaki Ninja (although the Ninja used 4). I found my local Kaw dealer had everything I needed for the carb and I didn't have to buy a kit. I spent about 7 bucks for my jet. It felt high but cheaper than the Dynajet kits.

If you want to you can use a small brass washer under the needle in the slide as opposed to buying the Dynajet clip needle. #3 in pic

CV Carburetor Modifications
This site is about the 40mm carb but same deal.

 

Thanks i will try that.

 

i notice that i have gas in oil what is the cause of that ? Please help

 

That would be a bad petcock. The Suzuki ones are vacuum operated with no real "off" position. More than likely yours is bad like mine. What happens is the vacuum "pulls" the fuel when it is running, but once the rubber seal in the petcock goes bad the fule can gravity flow into the carb, filling the vent line then overflowing into the crankcase.

I replaced mine with a non-vacuum one from a Yamaha Banchee 660, at a fraction of the price of the OEM replacment. I think i paid 35.00 for mine from the Dealer who had it on the shelf. I found them on-line for 12-15 plus shipping. The Suzuki OEM was not in stock anywhere and shipping was over a week minimum everywhere, and the dealer wanted 140.00, On-line 100.00.

The only modification was to block off the vacuum port on the top front of the carb. Then your rocking. After you dump the oil that is.

I would suggest while you are doing this add an in-line fuel filter. When I pulled my petcock the filter screens were toast. Hanging on to only one side of the tubes allowing all that trash to fill my carb. So you may want to just rebuild the carb, you do not have to replace everything, just the main jet. You can do the slide mod too as it takes a minute total, but it depends on what kind of riding you do. If you do a lot of trail riding weaving between trees at a slow pace you may not want to do this as it makes throttle response very quick and it can be a bit punchy until you get used to it.

When you rebuild your carb take everything apart or soak it in a can of carb cleaner or a tank, this will dissolve all the little bits. I didn't and it took me 4 tries to get all the dirt out of my carb. I used 2 tall-boy cans of carb cleaner and tore it down as far as I could. Every time I would get more bits of trash; it looked like black pepper. I couldn't get it to run off idle worth anything so the last time I tore it down I pulled the idle jet (again) and hosed it down and a fleck of dirt washed out. Put it back together and it fired up first try and has run like a champ since.

This link will help a ton!

Keihin 32CVK Disassembly

You can try to lean it out more by allowing more air into the intake. If you do not have a snorkle ( I don't -Yet) you can use these. They are 1" filters that you insert into your airbox they are made by UNI cost like 6-7 bucks. You will just have to not sink it past the seat lol.

Good luck!

 

You know now that I think about it I would replace the float valve while you have it apart. It is like 4 bucks, then polish the seat with a qtip and some toothpaste or brass cleaner , chuck it into a drill and polish until it is free of corrosion and pits. This will ensure no fuel is leaking past your float valve which can fill your crankcase with fuel too. It is 4 bucks worth of insurance.

The float valve seats are not replaceable so once it is ruined the carb is trash. I was told by my cycle shop that there is a company that will cut a new seat and ship you a custom valve but you have to send the carb away and wait, but it is cheaper than a new carb body.

 

I hate to keep adding stuff but be prepared to replace the screws on the carb body, they are very soft and will strip easy. If you strip them they can be removed with vicegrips. I replaced mine with allen head screws. They are 4M thread size. I took the carb into the store to match up lengths. One screw is shorter than the rest because the screw hole isn't threaded completly. You will either have to tap it or use a shorter screw. If you do not you can crack the screw hole.

 

thanks alot that some good info. Trying all that and get back with you. Thanks again foe everything

 

I just went throuh the same thing about a.month ago. There was little info to find quickly so i figured it was the least i could do was post my experience. It seems these Eiger have the same problems universally but are all addressed in different threads.
Now if i can find out how to keep mine in low...

 

Can you offer any suggestions on why my 2005 Eiger dies when I put the choke lever up? It runs when I have it down and will sputter while riding. I imagine i would need to adjust the mixture but where the hell is the screw??