Look inside the shift forks for worn/shiny spots,also check out the shift fork guides where they run inside the the shift drum for wear/roughness. Look at the wave washers sandwiched in between the shift forks,if collapsed,replace them. Look at the engagement dogs on the gears the shift forks ride on along with the teeth,replace any gear along with the mating gear if heavily worn.Same on all the mating gears. Make sure all circlips are mounted on the shafts and haven't been distorted or knocked out of their recesses. Look at the shift drum cut outs for wear or rough surfaces. Plus always replace the "silent" chain once you split a transmission. Plus don't over look all the fine teeth on the outer gear quadrant gears for damage.Plus check that all bearings are smooth turning,if any feel rough replace them along with the seals. Look closely at the manual,shows basically what I've described to check. Also on the last page of the transmission section it shows other trouble shooting checks for hard shifting transmissions such as idle,clutch problems,etc.

 

Thank you, I checked all of that and it looked good except the shift drum had some gummy crud on it so I cleaned it and greased it a little. Put it back together and shifts like butter! However only when its off it shiftas good...I guess I have to shim the driven because the belt looks like its riding up on the inside sheave of the drive clutch.

 

Entirely possible the clutch alignment was the major cause especially since it shifts better when the engines is off.Just take a washer from behind the rear clutch and match it up at any good hardware store. Doesn't have to be a perfect match,can be a tad bigger,just as long as it slips over the tranny shaft.Get a few of these.If belt is touching the inside sheath of the front clutch, then yes it's putting a strain on the tranny.

 

Well originally I couldnt shift with the engine running or not lol so its much better now! When I have it in park or neutural the belt is spinning is that right?

 

Belt shouldn't spin or at the most may try to a little,because of the one way bearing in the front clutch does the spinning,the belt for the most part should remain stationary. If the belt is spinning fast you may need to check into the front clutch one way bearing,fiber washer and brass washer for wear. Takes as special spider tool to separate the clutch (about 90 bucks or so) try the washers first and if this doesn't help,I'd just take the clutch off and let a dealer repair it. No sense in buying a $90 tool you'd probably use once. Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Honda, Arctic Cat & Polaris OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse

 

Well I figures it all out! I tried to align the clutches and managed to get the belt to stop spinning for a second and while watching I could see the one way bearing slide over and the belt started spinning again. I took the clutch off and I can slide the one way side to side a little over an 1/8 of an inch...I ordered both the brass and rubber washer. I'm assuming this will fix it. The one way turns fine and locks in the other direction. I am also aware of the special tools needed but will make them myself!

 

Best if you use a steel washer the same size as the brass washer or the same size as a shim behind the rear clutch. Will last longer. You'll probably see the brass washer ground down and stuck up inside the cap.Be careful when you pull the one way off to replace the fiber washer as it has roller bearings and small steel holders that can fall out. Best to use a dowel rod,toilet paper roll,shop rag,etc to insert in the one way as you pull it off the shaft. Put a fine layer of grease on the shaft before installing the one way back on. Clutch sheaths has to be torqued to 200 foot pounds when it's reassembled. You can buy aftermarket spider tools for 49 bucks now if you don't want to make one.http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SPIDER-REMOVAL-TOOL-p85-p90-CLUTCH-RZR-RANGER-700-800-900-SPORTSMAN-/161129223524?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item25840cd564&vxp=mtr

 

So your saying its okay to use a steel washer instead of the brass? The brass was worn to almost nothing like you said. I thought the brass was in there to prevent wear on the other steel parts? Also the one way is very smooth but should I wash out the rollers with brake cleaner or just leave it alone and put a little grease as you said?

 

What I used to think before I talked to a couple of Polaris engineers. One turned me on to using the washers found behind the secondary clutches instead of the brass washer which is really too soft as you've found out. This can cause binding in some cases and too much side play on the one way,causing the belt to slide to the side touching the inner sheath. Main thing is don't go any thicker than these washers as you must maintain between .016 to .020 (.406-.508 mm) clearance between the one way and the inner sheath with a feeler gauge after you replace the steel washer and fiber washer.If you take the one way apart you may have some of the metal bearing holders break. I'd just grease the shaft and slip the one way back on.This is on a Sportsman 500,but this is the washer. Item #1. Shows the dimensions that you can match up at any hardare store if need be.http://www.cyclepartswarehouse.com/f...005&fveh=39672

 

How do you measure that clearance? I can't imagine getting an accurate reading with feeler gauges when there is a soft fiber washer in there? Or are you just saying the one way can't be jammed in there it needs to have some endplay.