The tensioner will take up some slack. In my opinion, if you are left with less then a third of the adjustment, go ahead and replace the chain. The chain itself doesn't have any way to shorten it.

 

It must be over ten years since I had one of those engines down, but I think the tensioner is automatic, in fact similar to the Eigers etc, which I often fix. If so, you take it out as a unit, and see if it will go back in without pushing too hard, you should have at least 1/4" gap between adjuster and cylinder casting. If it is OK you then remove the cap, rod and spring, release the ratchet so the plunger retracts back into the adjuster, and it should go back into the cylinder casting easily. Tighten the two mounting screws, re-fit spring, rod and cap to put tension on it.

 

OK before I do this does anything else need to be done so I dont mess things up ?

And after this is done if its still is rattleing I guess the chain is stretched and I need a new one ? The sound gets worse in 1st 2nd 3rd and finaly fades in 4th n 5th kinda

 

"you should have at least 1/4" gap between adjuster and cylinder casting."

If you haven't 1/4" either chain or guides need replacement. The adjuster itself doesn't wear.

 

OK so I take out the whole adjuster then try to push it back in and if there's no gap somthing is warn ? If there is a 1/4 gap what should I look at then ? Sorry for the sane questions I just am new to loud rattleing noises lol not sure what to really look for

 

If the chain is the problem, there probably won't be any gap at all, just telling you how to check if you need a new one on the rebuild. As I wrote earlier, engine noises are bad to find, all you can do is check everything when you have the cylinder off, measure the wearing parts, and replace any that are undersize.

 

Will do thanks when I do the rebuild I'm prolly just gunna redo the whole top bore new kit and maby valves if they look rough and chain

I'll take the adjuster out soon and post back with a answer thanks again