I've got an Eiger 4x4 QuadRunner with no fire. The VIN does not come up as valid on the sites I've search, but I am pretty sure this is an LTF400. I have a service manual and I have tested what I can. I found that the resistor in the ignition coil boot was bad - reading in the mΩ range instead of the kΩ range - so I replaced that with one I had here and it still has no fire, although the coil resistance now reads correctly. I don't have a specialized Suzuki "multi-circuit tester" but I do have a Fluke with a LoZ auto-range min/max mode. I used that to measure the output of the CKP sensor on the blue and green leads but I only get 0.5v instead of the 4v called for. I don't know if my meter is loading that circuit to much to get an accurate reading, though. The resistance of that coil reads correctly. There is another coil shown in the ignition system diagram on the yellow and white leads that does not show up in the main wiring diagram. This coil is also not mentioned in the troubleshooting section of the ignition system. It, too, is putting out 0.5v but it's resistance reads dang near shorted at 0.3Ω. I have voltage to the ECU orange/white and black/white leads. The parking brake relay is working.

At this point, I am torn between pickup coils and CDI. Advice?

 

All manual gear Eigers are LTF 400s. Seems like you are an electrician, as you seem to be testing electronics, may be because I'm a mechanic, but I find most resistance tests a waste of time. Voltage tests on exciter and trigger coils also, they can be wildly out, according to the manual, and the bike runs fine. Check if you are getting high voltage spikes from CDI to coil when tuning engine, this indicates if coil is OK. There should be a test sequence for the wires to CDI in the manual, most of which you have already done, but no mention of the kill wire or the earth, which are the most important. Eigers are prone to the rotor magnets coming off and (usually) damaging the stator, but taking a look, on the manual gear version, involves a shower of gears and washers dropping out when you remove the alternator cover, not to be undertaken lightly, as it isn't obvious where they fit back in.

 

lol... I am an electronics technician first - with 25+ years - and a mechanic second - with 5+ years. While testing things, I inadvertently plugged the ignition coil back in while the ignition was still switched on. I can promise you that there is high voltage there! It knocked my hand off the leads. I will check tomorrow to see if these pulses are ongoing while the engine is spinning but I must have forgotten to mention that I had a new universal ignition coil laying around that I did try and still didn't have spark. Yeah, I did neglect the kill wire. For some reason, that slipped my mind. I will check that tomorrow too.

 

I double checked. All of the connections to the CDI are there. The kill switch is putting voltage on the CDI and removing it, the parking brake is putting voltage where it should, ground is there... What I don't understand is that with the CDI disconnected from the ignition coil, there is -300v whether the engine is spinning or not. With the coil connected, there is nothing.

 

Some say that CDI stands for capacitor discharge ignition, could the capacitor bit account for a voltage that goes away when you connect it to the LT windings of the coil?

Anyway, I guess you are going to have to check the stator or just go for a new HT coil, (doubt if your "universal" includes the voltage produced by a CDI box), if that doesn't work, a new CDI, and hope you are not wasting money. An accurate reading of the trigger and exciter coil voltages would help, but as you wrote, without the special equipment, accuracy isn't certain. Can't remember off hand if those stator coils should be earthed, if they shouldn't, and they are, that is the problem.

 

Just as a follow up... good grief! Three of the four magnets had come loose. Plus the oil is a milky looking, yellow green color. It looks like the silicone(?) potting gear position switch had broken down. I'm hoping that that is what's causing the discoloration of the oil.

Thank you for your help.

 

Had the magnets jumped onto the stator? On the one I had they had jammed and smashed everything, flywheel was so tight we had to cut it off with a welding torch.

 

The magnets were sucked up to the stator. I haven't pulled the flywheel off yet - I'm still waiting for the guy to decide what he wants to do - but I don't think it's going to be that problem. Fingers crossed.

 

Trouble is the flywheel is big money, as is the stator, so if they are both damaged it ends up expensive. We had a scrap Eiger in, and took the parts from that.