Hi all,
I received new parts (thnx Jack) and tried to assemble and install. I compared my work to a oem parts fiche and it seems ok, but doesn't look ok to me. Can you all look over pics please and correct me on any of it? From outside in, Assembly went...nut, washer, fixed plate, bigger washer, spacer, new seal, New movable drive face, large o-ring, 4 new rollers (held in place by dab of grease), new movable plate, 3 new dampers, cover with 3 screws, Key, starter gear. Thanks for any help.



I also made a block off plate for the removed oil injector, it should do the trick?


Have a great day, thanks!

 

Oic 1 and 2 are good.
Pic 3, did you add another washer under the fixxed face? Sorta looks it.
From pic 2, then the belt, then the fixxed face, then the dome washer (dome out) and the nut.

 

Thnx for reviewing it Jack.
No on "another washer", that's part of the fixed face. I made double sure the outer most washer was cup in.

Belt on and everything tightened up.

The input and info this forum provides has been a gold mine of knowledge. My grandkids have 4+ fun yrs and a couple trophies, credited to you all. THANKS. I need to get some "ATVconnection" stickers. Lol
And another grandson will be riding this yr. I need another 80. Lol

 

Looks good!

 

Alrighty then, thnx Jack!
Moving on to carb and reed cage.

 

After all the mods learned here were completed the lt80 screams and kids have loved riding solid the last 3 month's or so. But! This past Friday the starter seemed to not engage the starter gear, just spins. Pulled off left side and found the starter gear flopping. What I find is the bushing that was welded to the gear is now separate from gear! The weld (which faces the case) that holds the two pieces together was sheared off and the two pieces separated leaveing the gear to be flopping. No idea why that weld would get shaved off, any body? ? ? Luckily I had a spare starter gear. Put it all back together and ATV fired right up. Rev'd it up many times to watch belt action and a loud WHACK was heard and engine won't turn. Pulled off top end and it's trashed! Rod to crank bearing shelled and sent pieces everywhere. Cylinder is gauged, rings/piston crap, head pitted. Gotta start over!!! Got the crank out ok, bearings pulled ok, but I can not press the pin out of crank journal, no way no how. Rebuilding crank correctly looks to be a PITA anyway, so I'm in the market for a crankshaft assembly and a whole top end. Mr. Jack (Lt80) do you have a head that is shaved along with a 51 to 52 top end? Any chance this pitted head can be used??? Thanks everyone.

 

Continued...
I'm going with Mr. Crank to rebuild crank. I might need a head, anybody have one? Jack, how can I tell if a head has been shaved and is ,030 the max? Can I measure it? Inside of this one is pitted up, thought I'd try and smooth it out and reuse, is that even possible?.

Machine shop was able to bore cylinder to 51.5, Looks brand new : ). Now the only piston ring set I can find is wiseco and proX. I've already had a short lived wiseco adventure,
so I'm prolly going with Pro-X piston set. Only thing I don't understand is Pro-X says it's for sleeved cylinder, any idea why? What would be the diff? Can I use the Pro-X?
I appreciate all the help from this site, you all have bailed this rookie out numerous times. THANK YOU.

 

I mark my heads. You can re-use the head, no problem.
Ummm. you bore the cylinder to the piston. A 51.5 piston is not 51.5. The bore guy should have known that. And yes, get the Pro-x. I don't know why they say it's for sleeved cylinders.

 

Sorry, I mis-read.. Yes I have heads here too.

 

Maybe time delay or stars aren't lined up, but my last 2 post don't show up.

Anyway...the machine shop only test bored the cylinder to make sure it'll clean up. Once they have piston set they'll finish to fit. It looks new to my rookie eye.