Where are you guys getting your copper head gaskets to run with the O-ringed heads? I know on V8 motors you O-ring the block but I have seen zilla heads O-ringed ? Are you doing both the jug and head or just one? Do they offer different thickness copper head gaskets? Thanks for any info.

 

I seen Trinity does it. I am not sure of the price. I am curious myself?

 

Not sure where you could actually purchase a copper head gasket... I've made a few before
Thin copper, made an imprint of the top of the cylinder, then cut it out (Very carefully)

Haven't heard anybody running a copper head gasket in conjunction with O-rings?? although I am familiar with the situation you mentioned on the V-8's...

Most outfits that O-ring these machines, generally just do the head, and run hi temp (Viton) O-rings... It seems to work well. (I've been running this setup on my 250R for about 3 years.)
(MY 500 will have one after this springs rebuild)

You may check with CT racing, LRD racing or any of the aftermarket engine builders. The two I mentioned both offer the Pro-design 'Cool head'. (I don't recommend Trinity)

Hope this helps

 

2strokeDiehard
If you use a cool head with a o-ring set up you will change your water cooling path.( the cool head was designed to use the stock head gasket not a o-ring system ) The stock head gasket directs the water flow so as to cool the cylinder and head in a certain orderly fashion. If you use a cool head without the gasket( just o-rings ) water will come in the cylinder from the front lower right corner, go up the cylinder into the head, and go out the head spigot. ( no cooling path ) The stock head gasket directs the water with a series of holes, the small holes go over the front right side and the larger holes go over the intake side of the cylinder. The small holes block the bulk of water from entering the head, This forces the water to flow across the cylinder first, then up into the head, across the head then out. We weld up the stock head and put the proper water pattern in the head so the water flows correctly. We have been doing the o-ring head mod this way for over 10 years. But I guess if you want, you could do it as others are suggesting. BUT I DON'T RECOMMEND IT

 

Thank You Harry,
I knew by just O-ringing the head or block you would lose cooling efficiency that's why I was looking for the copper head gasket but guess they don't offer one. I have very little clearance now between the head and piston and was thinking the copper head gasket would help here too if I could find a thicker one. Do you offer some sort of shim for the jug? I have talked with you before on the phone and appreciate your time very much, again Thank You.

 

2strokeDiehard
When we do the o-ring mod we set your piston to head clearance, and adjust your cc size to accommodate your fuel / compression requirements ( if you want a compression change now's the time ). To do this we need to know a few things about your motor, ( exhaust port spec, piston to deck height, altitude, and octane you will be using ) or (your compression now, piston to head clearance , altitude, and head gasket thickness ) Or if you have a stock gasket and you want the same compression we can calculate the extra cc's needed and set the new deck height from your existing head.
If you just want to get a little deck height and can live with a small port timing change, we have base gaskets in .010 increments up to .060. If you add .010 to the base gasket your port timing will probably be fine, if you need to add more then that I will be more then happy to give you the port timing changes and the effect they will have on your power band.

 

HarryMcDermott,

I'll tell you my problem, or I should say problemS and see what you think. I'm seeing what my options are so I don't by any means expect you to waste more time if you don't care to!! I am amazed at what time you take out of your busy schedule for the every day Joe Blow like myself that's lives on the other side of the world, ( maybe not that far ). Makes me wish I lived closer.
I have -.043 deck clearance. ( yes the piston comes out of the jug ) with the standard .020 Cometic base gasket. The top of the piston is right at the bottom of the exhaust port and intake passages on BDC. ( not real sure where its suppose to be ). The jug has been ported and says Chuck E national on it. I have never head of this maybe you have. The head looks as thou it has been surfaced and with the .045 compressed thickness head gasket it only leaves me .040 piston to head clearance. The jug should be surfaced, it has had a sleeve put in it and its not a perfect fit. The head should also probably be done again but its not real bad. This would leave me with very little clearance. The thing is together and running now but I want to get it fixed and after realizing that you weld to the head then surface this sounds like the best way out. Comp. isn't a real big deal. Again Thank You. Ever think of having an east coast shop!! LOL

P.S. Is your Raptor cam 100% yet??

 

2strokeDiehard
Having the piston coming out of the cylinder is not uncommon, As a engine builder/porter you have to do, what you have to do to get the port timing where you need it. The reason the piston comes out of the cylinder ( my guess ) was that the motor was already ported probably for drag racing or hi rpm, Then a request was made to have more low end power. At that time the port timing needed to be changed/lowered, there would be two choices ( 1, re-sleeve, weld, and start over ) or ( 2, lower the cylinder by cutting the base ) both example would accomplish the goal, one would just cost three times as much. In your case you still have all of the choices that I mentioned in my other post to fix it.

Even though this is a common practice this does not mean that it is the right way to do this job, the right way to do the job would have been to re-sleeve.

 

HarryMcDermott,

Thanks for the info, I will be calling you on the phone for some work.