beat to death oil question
#1
06-06-2002, 07:34 AM
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I have read a lot of info regarding auto vs moto oils. I would like to know what you guys run in your Eigers/suzukis. Does the auto Eiger have a wet clutch? I'm thinking yes. I did find a STP SMO-18 filter at autozone, $10 cheaper than the Zuki dealer. I plan on changing the oil every 400 to 500 miles maybe sooner. Thanks for your help. Jerry
#2
06-06-2002, 10:24 AM
Yes this subject has certainly had some input over the years with non-conclusive results. The choice of a motor oil is akin to the selection of a wife or a religion with some folks. LOL. Here are my thoughts.
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SYNTHETICS
In extreme situations, such as operating with clogged radiators and the temperature light on nothing will provide the protection to an engine like a synthetic based oil will.
If the engine never sees water or mud and putts around the cow pasture, then conventional oil will do.
Since you are from Florida and it is always hot there, your oil requirements are for a heavier weight oil than somebody running an atv in Minnesota or Canada. You do not need to worry about "cold startup oil pressure" like the guys up north.
I own a Polaris, the owners manual says to use synthetic 0W-40 or if that is not available 5W-30 SH. So what is that all about anyway? All SL, SJ oils indicate on their bottles that they replace category SH.
Anyway... I do not think that you can find better lubricants than Mobil 1
you could very easily run 10W-40 or the new SuperSyn 15W-50 which is recommeneded for Corvettes, Mercedes, Porsche, and Rolls Royce. It carries the highest ACEA ratings available (A3,B3,B4). If the Mobil 1 was not available I would use Valvoline synthetic 5W-40 which is the next best rated oil currently available. (A3,B3)
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CONVENTIONAL OIL
Start with the blends and look for the best ACEA ratings on the back of the bottle.
For a more reasonably priced oil try the standards that we have used for years.
In Florida, any good 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-50 from a major manufacturer would do. (Personally) I would start with Havoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil and work my way down from there.
It has been my experience that the high volume Wal-Marts always have the latest and newest oil stocks due to their tremendous inventory turnover.
(We have a very sleepy K-Mart in the area that does not even have the newly labeled Pennzoil yet!)
So those are my thoughts... Okay Amsoil boys, jump in here and do your thing.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
SYNTHETICS
In extreme situations, such as operating with clogged radiators and the temperature light on nothing will provide the protection to an engine like a synthetic based oil will.
If the engine never sees water or mud and putts around the cow pasture, then conventional oil will do.
Since you are from Florida and it is always hot there, your oil requirements are for a heavier weight oil than somebody running an atv in Minnesota or Canada. You do not need to worry about "cold startup oil pressure" like the guys up north.
I own a Polaris, the owners manual says to use synthetic 0W-40 or if that is not available 5W-30 SH. So what is that all about anyway? All SL, SJ oils indicate on their bottles that they replace category SH.
Anyway... I do not think that you can find better lubricants than Mobil 1
you could very easily run 10W-40 or the new SuperSyn 15W-50 which is recommeneded for Corvettes, Mercedes, Porsche, and Rolls Royce. It carries the highest ACEA ratings available (A3,B3,B4). If the Mobil 1 was not available I would use Valvoline synthetic 5W-40 which is the next best rated oil currently available. (A3,B3)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
CONVENTIONAL OIL
Start with the blends and look for the best ACEA ratings on the back of the bottle.
For a more reasonably priced oil try the standards that we have used for years.
In Florida, any good 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-50 from a major manufacturer would do. (Personally) I would start with Havoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil and work my way down from there.
It has been my experience that the high volume Wal-Marts always have the latest and newest oil stocks due to their tremendous inventory turnover.
(We have a very sleepy K-Mart in the area that does not even have the newly labeled Pennzoil yet!)
So those are my thoughts... Okay Amsoil boys, jump in here and do your thing.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#3
06-07-2002, 08:08 AM
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#4
06-07-2002, 09:23 AM
I used to know a link to test results from comparing auto/cycle oils.
I wish I still had it because this issue is asked once a week.
Their conclusion was that although cycle oils cost on average 315% more than auto oils, they actually provide less protection, and break down in a 1/3 of the time than auto oils.
Their pic for top oil for cycles/atvs was Mobil 1 15W30, followed by Castrol GTX.
I'll look for the link, and post it. It made for some interesting reading.
I wish I still had it because this issue is asked once a week.
Their conclusion was that although cycle oils cost on average 315% more than auto oils, they actually provide less protection, and break down in a 1/3 of the time than auto oils.
Their pic for top oil for cycles/atvs was Mobil 1 15W30, followed by Castrol GTX.
I'll look for the link, and post it. It made for some interesting reading.
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