Sorry I'm new to this site I've got a lot of good info from the Suzuki section building my kfx80. Hoping maybe someone can give me some advice on a problem I'm having with a eton Thunder 90.

The atv runs great starts great but having an issue with the idle. When I start it it idles fine, let it warm up and give it gas and it starts revving on its own. If I tilt it to the side it goes back to normal idle. Also if I turn the atv off I hear a slight grind sound like the clutch stopping. But the atv doesn't skip a beat riding.. And take off is great. I've rebuilt the carb .. Same thing .. Replaced the carb.. Again same thing.. So I'm kind of at a loss. Could a cvt issue cause this or if anyone else has a suggestion I could definitely use it. I've also looked at the head and there is no leaking from either gasket. Again sorry for putting this in the wrong section but it seems like some knowledgeable people here..

 

It shouldn't be but seeins there is a noise, I'd check the clutchs out just to make sure all is well.
Is the carb slide needle all together correct? Could the needle be floating?
After that I'm thinking it could be the main bearing seals.

 

Hey LT80 good to hear from you .. I got a lot of good info from you on your posts a replies while building the Kfx80 I was working on.
I'm pretty sure the carb is good I have rebuilt the old one and also put a new one on it. I also sprayed around the intake and no effect. If I cover the intake tube on the air box half way the idle goes back down. I'm in the process of pulling the plastic side cover off the motor to see exactly what I need to take off to get to the crank seals but whoever installed the cover from the factory must have put it together with an impact on as high it will go and it's a Phillips head so naturally they are rounded out now. Does the motor need to come out if it ends up being any of the seals again I'm not to familiar with this model.

 

Thanks, glad I was able to help.
I use a hand impact driver on those darn screws. Use a chisle and make a groove if need be.
The seals are behind the clutchs and behind the stator. Usually can be done in frame.

 

I got em off now it was the two holding the plastic cover on ( pb blaster and I had enough room to get vice grips on em) and wouldn't take know about 10 more Philips heads locked up tight lol. Anyhow I I switched out air boxes from my daughters viper and that calmed it down for a while but then it started again. So if I cover half the breather tube it drops down if I start with no air box it idles fine. I haven't got the medal side cover off yet I'm letting them soak a little bit but I'm not seeing any oil in the bottom of the cover behind the small filter where the crank would come out. Thanks again for the reply

 

Do you think the reeds could cause this by any chance .. Of the bikes I've worked I've never had a reed issue amazingly.

 

Better check them to make sure. They can crack!

 

Yeah it seems like a lot of variables.. Last night I turned the air screw in when it started idling up and it came down as I was turning it like it should and stayed.. it sat and idled for about 10 mins or so then started to rev but not as high. Thought the vibration may be backing the air screw out. I stopped there so I'm gonna pick up where I left off a little later today when I get off work. Thanks for replying.

I thought I saw a post you were in PA.. I'm right below you in the tax Capitol .. Md.

 

If it were the crank seals would the air screw still bring the idle down to perfect idle?