How to set wheel alignment. "Now with pictures!"


I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.

Here's some of the tools you will need...



1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.



2.) Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.



3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.



4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height (Center line of wheels) from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.

 

5.) Break loose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.



6.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!



Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.

For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.

7.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.





8.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.



9.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.

10.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.

The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.

 

Getting ready to swap out all 4 tie rod ends and looked out here to find tips for alignment after the work. Great job documenting how to do it. I thought it was going to be much more difficult. Thanks much!

 

More than happy to help out!

 

Easier just to have a straight edge(metal stud or straight 1x4),have someone hold the handle bars straight while you have the straight edge against the rear tire.Once you have the same distance between the front tire(back and front of front tire) and the straight edge you can toe it out the recommended distance.We got tired of chalk lines and string lines at the shop real quick and used this method.

 

Sounds a lot easier, but let me make sure I've got it. The straight edge lays across the back and front sides of the rear tire at axle level, then I take my measurements of the front and back of the front rim? Then when they're the same distance from the straight edge I toe-out 1/16-1/8". did I get it?

 

Yep,you got it except we measured from the straight edge to the front/back of the front tire not the rim. Make sure someone is holding the bars straight and tight. You'll probably notice one front tire will have a different distance between the straight edge versus the other tire. This is because of frame geometry. A lot of machines front tires don't track in the same tire print as the rears. You still need to find the equal distance per side on the straight edge and toe out the recommended amount. After alignment find a smooth straight stretch of road and while holding the bars straight,let go at about 15 mph. Should track straight with no pulling left or right.If it does recheck your alignment. Here's one guy's method,BUT the bars will move this way without someone holding them straight!! Just holding the straight edge with one hand and turning the tie rod to get the adjustment is sufficient as long as you have someone holding the handle bars. We aligned a whole lot of machines over the years and this worked out well.