If I decide to go premix oil I don't have to put it back, but what about the snap ring and pin?

 

Probably what I did but can't remember..

 

Snap ring I'd reinstall.The pin I wouldn't worry about. Make sure you block off the oil injector nozzle on the carb.You can get plugs at most auto stores.

 

Could you recommend a 2 stroke prefix oil that I can get at the parts store?

 

Man tha's like what's the best engine oil.. Don't want another debate. ANY major brand,synthetic preferred, 2 stroke premix oil designed for cycles,atvs. Just do a google search and your head will spin...https://www.google.com/search?q=2+st...h=745&dpr=1.25

 

Ok I swapped the seals, and no change. Thats 2 different new jug kits, a reed valve, and seals. Im so friggen lost. Still 58 psi!!!!!

 

The last 2-stroke oil I bought was TC-W3 rated Pennzoil Marine Premium Plus and I don't have a boat. I was told it's good for all 2-strokes, but if I was getting something for an ATV instead of a smaller engine I think I would find a full synthetic instead of a blend like that.

 

Then the leak down test is what you're down to. New seals would seal the lower end,but if it's leaking at the engine crank case inner web area, seals aren't going to help. Plus 2 different top end kits,showing the same compression.. Under about 7psi on the leak down tester,open the oil fill plug and check for air leakage or bubbling in the gear case section,plus spray soapy water around the outside of the crank case seam. If you find bubbling either internal into the gear case section or leaking around the crank case section,the engine will have to be split,cases cleaned,resealed.

 

I couldn't find bubbling anywhere

 

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