Flat____ BED ?
#1
02-15-2006, 02:48 PM
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Flat____ BED ?
Hello, I have been thinking since I have a couple Sportsmans to haul around, that the best solution would be to have say a newer Ford/Chevy/Dodge crewcab diesel with 8' flat bed. Then have trailer/toy hauler in tow.
Anyone using this configuration/have an opinion? I have been shopping for one... Thanks.
Anyone using this configuration/have an opinion? I have been shopping for one... Thanks.
#2
02-15-2006, 07:38 PM
Flat____ BED ?
The flat bed/normal travel trailer would not be a bad way to go.
Though I feel 5th wheels handle better than trailers, if you go that route then you can only carry as many ATV's as fit in the toyhauler. If you want to carry more than 2, that can mean a really big 5th wheel, or an open floor plan that makes compromises in the way of furnature and living area floorplan.
If you were to get a flat bed long enough to hold 3 quads, (say a GMC 5500 with a 12' bed) you could get a normal RV trailer (on the used market there are more bargins in normal RV trailers than toyhaulers), or if you wanted to haul a bunch of quads, you could pull a toy hauler RV/trailer and have room for more quads on the bed.
Other possibility that could be handy if there are only two of you (depending on what else you do) would be a nicer camper and a nicer atv trailer... Say a Bigfoot 10.6 (quality built, like two boat hulls bonded at the middle) and a nice trailer like a Zieman. The Bigfoot 10.6 is one of the smaller campers to have a dry bath, but about as big as you can go and still pull a trailer. Heavy enough (with hitch, and trailer's hitch weight) that a dually would be the way to go if you went that route.
If there are riding areas near you where you can't legally ride the quad from the campground to the trailhead, doing the flatbed could really be handy. You could drop the RV trailer, and use the truck to shuttle over to the staging area at the trailhead.
Some staging areas just don't have enough room to turn a big 5th wheel around.
Likewise, campers do have advantages, in that the rig could go pretty much anyplace you could get the pickup (given adequate headroom).
5th wheels also have advantages, like they don't tend to have sway issues when towing, you can turn much sharper (where a travel trailer would smash the bumper), and there is a lot more breathing room (and tank capacity) than a camper. Pin weight can overload the rear axle on a 2500 or SRW 3500 pretty quickly, though.
I like my setup, but I could see doing the flatbed thing at some point.
Though I feel 5th wheels handle better than trailers, if you go that route then you can only carry as many ATV's as fit in the toyhauler. If you want to carry more than 2, that can mean a really big 5th wheel, or an open floor plan that makes compromises in the way of furnature and living area floorplan.
If you were to get a flat bed long enough to hold 3 quads, (say a GMC 5500 with a 12' bed) you could get a normal RV trailer (on the used market there are more bargins in normal RV trailers than toyhaulers), or if you wanted to haul a bunch of quads, you could pull a toy hauler RV/trailer and have room for more quads on the bed.
Other possibility that could be handy if there are only two of you (depending on what else you do) would be a nicer camper and a nicer atv trailer... Say a Bigfoot 10.6 (quality built, like two boat hulls bonded at the middle) and a nice trailer like a Zieman. The Bigfoot 10.6 is one of the smaller campers to have a dry bath, but about as big as you can go and still pull a trailer. Heavy enough (with hitch, and trailer's hitch weight) that a dually would be the way to go if you went that route.
If there are riding areas near you where you can't legally ride the quad from the campground to the trailhead, doing the flatbed could really be handy. You could drop the RV trailer, and use the truck to shuttle over to the staging area at the trailhead.
Some staging areas just don't have enough room to turn a big 5th wheel around.
Likewise, campers do have advantages, in that the rig could go pretty much anyplace you could get the pickup (given adequate headroom).
5th wheels also have advantages, like they don't tend to have sway issues when towing, you can turn much sharper (where a travel trailer would smash the bumper), and there is a lot more breathing room (and tank capacity) than a camper. Pin weight can overload the rear axle on a 2500 or SRW 3500 pretty quickly, though.
I like my setup, but I could see doing the flatbed thing at some point.
#3
02-16-2006, 01:30 PM
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Flat____ BED ?
JeffinTD, thanks for the input, I appreciate the effort to kick the idea around.
I picked up a 2001 Tahoe Transport this year, so I got the good deal on the Toy Hauler goin, but eventually would like to have a diesel rig for towing.
The Toy haulers are nice. Not just for hauling the bikes but the gear and the additional room you have after unloading is amazing and makes it very nice for elbow room with a family.
Eventually I would like to invest in a better tow vehicle for hwy cruising purposes. It would be nice hitting the hwy's in the hills with more torque than I have now (1981 Chevy 454 crummy, see pics) and when I do I was thinking it would make sense to plan for having the bikes on back. I can haul buddies rigs too....
I picked up a 2001 Tahoe Transport this year, so I got the good deal on the Toy Hauler goin, but eventually would like to have a diesel rig for towing.
The Toy haulers are nice. Not just for hauling the bikes but the gear and the additional room you have after unloading is amazing and makes it very nice for elbow room with a family.
Eventually I would like to invest in a better tow vehicle for hwy cruising purposes. It would be nice hitting the hwy's in the hills with more torque than I have now (1981 Chevy 454 crummy, see pics) and when I do I was thinking it would make sense to plan for having the bikes on back. I can haul buddies rigs too....
#4
02-16-2006, 02:20 PM
Flat____ BED ?
Oh, I see...
In that case, I am really happy with my Dodge/Cummins combo. I'd always been a Ford man, but I know a guy who manages a fleet of early 6.0 powered trucks and had a lot of problems... Chevy's Isuzu motor has a pretty good reputation, though I think there were some injector issues with some of them, but Chevy took care of their customers.
When you say you are looking for "newer" I presume you are looking for late model used? In that case, that would rule out the mega cab, and the disadvantage with Dodge is the slightly shorter cab. I'm just over 6'2 and over 200 pounds and can ride comfortably in back, but if it were to be longer than an hour or two...
If you decide to go Dodge, post again and I can give you some links and some ideas of things to look at.
In that case, I am really happy with my Dodge/Cummins combo. I'd always been a Ford man, but I know a guy who manages a fleet of early 6.0 powered trucks and had a lot of problems... Chevy's Isuzu motor has a pretty good reputation, though I think there were some injector issues with some of them, but Chevy took care of their customers.
When you say you are looking for "newer" I presume you are looking for late model used? In that case, that would rule out the mega cab, and the disadvantage with Dodge is the slightly shorter cab. I'm just over 6'2 and over 200 pounds and can ride comfortably in back, but if it were to be longer than an hour or two...
If you decide to go Dodge, post again and I can give you some links and some ideas of things to look at.
#5
02-16-2006, 02:54 PM
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#6
02-16-2006, 03:24 PM
Flat____ BED ?
Well, let's see...
03 is when they switched from VP44 to CP-3 injector pump and went common rail. Much quieter, starts faster, doesn't have the lift pump issues some of the 2nd gen trucks had.
From 03 to 04.5 there was a choice of High Output (305hp/555tq) or SO (I think was 275/505 or something like that). The SO was CA smog legel. There will be a tag on the valve cover area that says which engine there is.
Early 03's the only choice for an auto was SO mated to 37RE, but midyear the stronger 48RE came out and came with the HO. Seems to be fairly reliable, unless you turn the engine up or put on a Jake brake without modifying the tranny.
For the manual, NV5600 is iron cased 6 speed from 03 to late part of 05 when they switched to G56 and a dual mass flywheel. The G has a much lower high gear and only comes with 3.73 rear end and still turns pretty high RPM on the freeway.
Rear ends switched in 03 from Dana to AAM, and your choice is 4.10 or 3.73. If you plan on running empty much at freeway speeds, get the 3.73's. If you constantly tow heavy and/or want to run 35" tires and an auto (higher top gear than the NV5600) then consider 4.10's.
As far as issues, there aren't too many major ones. There were TSB's about stamped steel alternator brackets that can crack, there was an updated power steering hose that takes care of a buzz/vibration at 2000 RPM, and some had bad door seals.
If you look at the pressure supply line running from the power steering pump to the hydrobooster on the brakes, the new style hose has a big metal weight in it, and a metal crimp. Bad door seals will show evidence of water running down the A-pillar handles. AAM axles require fluid change every 15K, and call for full synthetic GL-5, so make sure that was done. A few people have had ball joints wear out before they should have.
Otherwise, just look for the normal signs of abuse/problems.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/ is a good place with lots of info and helpful people.
Anyhow, have fun truck shopping.
03 is when they switched from VP44 to CP-3 injector pump and went common rail. Much quieter, starts faster, doesn't have the lift pump issues some of the 2nd gen trucks had.
From 03 to 04.5 there was a choice of High Output (305hp/555tq) or SO (I think was 275/505 or something like that). The SO was CA smog legel. There will be a tag on the valve cover area that says which engine there is.
Early 03's the only choice for an auto was SO mated to 37RE, but midyear the stronger 48RE came out and came with the HO. Seems to be fairly reliable, unless you turn the engine up or put on a Jake brake without modifying the tranny.
For the manual, NV5600 is iron cased 6 speed from 03 to late part of 05 when they switched to G56 and a dual mass flywheel. The G has a much lower high gear and only comes with 3.73 rear end and still turns pretty high RPM on the freeway.
Rear ends switched in 03 from Dana to AAM, and your choice is 4.10 or 3.73. If you plan on running empty much at freeway speeds, get the 3.73's. If you constantly tow heavy and/or want to run 35" tires and an auto (higher top gear than the NV5600) then consider 4.10's.
As far as issues, there aren't too many major ones. There were TSB's about stamped steel alternator brackets that can crack, there was an updated power steering hose that takes care of a buzz/vibration at 2000 RPM, and some had bad door seals.
If you look at the pressure supply line running from the power steering pump to the hydrobooster on the brakes, the new style hose has a big metal weight in it, and a metal crimp. Bad door seals will show evidence of water running down the A-pillar handles. AAM axles require fluid change every 15K, and call for full synthetic GL-5, so make sure that was done. A few people have had ball joints wear out before they should have.
Otherwise, just look for the normal signs of abuse/problems.
http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/ is a good place with lots of info and helpful people.
Anyhow, have fun truck shopping.
