Plow Question
#12
Plow Question
I have both. A 48" Cycle Country on a 1990 King Quad (ya, a little long in the tooth but still works fine) and a 60" Moose on a 04 Vinson. The Moose rolls better and angles further. I probably do an undilating mile with each outing. I have found that it is easier to plow more often than fight slop when the snow floor breaks up. The new setup easily moves twice the snow as the old quad and is much easier to operate with a winch. They do get heavy when snow sticks to them. I have home-made skids that don't wear out and usually run in 3rd gear hi range, the old King usually low range. The trick is to throw it high enough and far enough to get it over the berm. My dream blade would be a striaght, but shaped like a "bow-tie" for more lift & distance. fwiw....
#13
Plow Question
When I bought my plow I compared warn, cycle country, kimpex, and moose plows. I found the moose plow to be built heavier than all the others, and seemed to have the most ground clearance when raised. I purchased the 52" model and it works flawlessly. had it for 2 years and no problems yet. Works great on sidewalks and driveways. Just my 2-cents though.
#15
Plow Question
I have the 48" blade and I clear sidewalks commercially. I have absolutely no problems with length! HA HA HA anyways I like the glacier 2, 48" because I don't have to worry about the blade extending wider than my machine. Less to watch out for when I'm plowing. I clear between 11 and 23 driveways per snow for the Bank's repos. Sidewalks can be a challange with a blade longer than 48" because of the tear up on the grass along the edge. Just my 2 cents. I would like to have a synthetic rope instead of cable and some sort of power to angle my blade without getting off my machine. Any suggestions?
#18
Plow Question
Sorry everyone. Here goes. I bought a pure polaris electricblade lift. In essence it is a 1500 pound winch. I have a 60" moose straight blade. I am mounting the winch on the push tubes behind the blade. Take a piece of cable and wrap it three or four times around the winch drum. Wrap the cable in the middle so there are equal lengths hanging out each side of the drum. When the winch turns one way it pulls on one cable and loosenes the other and vise versa. Take two pulleys and mount them on the pushtubes back close to the quad then run the cable out to a stiff spring that connects to the back of the blade, toward the end. Make sure the springs are connected to the back of the blade at the same height as the blade trip bolts. I don't know the exact term but the bolts that attach the blade to the pushtubes. These are the same bolts that the blade hinges on when an obstacle is struck and the blade trips. To keep from stripping the winch gears when I slam a curb or other obstacle I am putting a pretty stiff spring on the lever to pull the pin to angle the blade. I am putting a nylon strap with a black rubber tarp bungee on one end. This strap will pull the angle adjust lever toward the rear to lock the pin which will hold the blade angle that is chosen. The pin will be pulled out of "battery" and allow the blade angle to be adjusted when the blade is raised. When the blade is lowered the rubber tarp bungee will pull with greater force than the spring thus pulling the pin back into "battery".
The springs mounted to the cable on the back of the blade allow for "play" if the blade adjust pin misses its hole. Also keeps most of the strain off of the winch gears. I am essentially making the redneck version of the cycle country electric blade angle kit. To better understand what I am talking about you can look at their website and find the installation instructions with pictures. I am going to have less than $100 in this turn kit vs. $300 for the other turn kits. Let me know if you have any other questions. I am hoping to fabricate the turn kit either this weekend or next. And I am not smart enough to post pictures. Also right above the original question click on "new topic" to start one. Hope this answered more questions than it raised.
The springs mounted to the cable on the back of the blade allow for "play" if the blade adjust pin misses its hole. Also keeps most of the strain off of the winch gears. I am essentially making the redneck version of the cycle country electric blade angle kit. To better understand what I am talking about you can look at their website and find the installation instructions with pictures. I am going to have less than $100 in this turn kit vs. $300 for the other turn kits. Let me know if you have any other questions. I am hoping to fabricate the turn kit either this weekend or next. And I am not smart enough to post pictures. Also right above the original question click on "new topic" to start one. Hope this answered more questions than it raised.