Warn XT30 draws 14 amps at no load, 67 amps at 1000 pound pull, 125 amps at 2000 pounds, and 198 amps at 3000 pound load...

 

here is a link for ann fuses for about 11.00 bucks
http://www.powrparts.com/index...on=VIEWPROD&ProdID=24


I think I will go with a 175 or 200 amp fuse more than likely the 175 to be on the safe side, if it blows I don't winch anymore. get the tow truck [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Just my opinion: Not fusing a longer electrical connection, especially on a vehicle such as an ATV where rubbing and twisting might take place on the wires, is not a good idea. I know several manufacturers specify not to use fuses, but would you trust your garage or house to a piece of unfused, frayed positive wiring that's 1/8" away from a ground? Mmmm, I wouldn't.

At least unhook the winch between rides.

 

I don't know... With the positive cable the only one that's hot when the winch isn't on, and it wrapped in split loom harness, tucked in at the edge of the frame and zip tied so it's not resting against any gussets or any sharp edges and can't rub...

I guess I feel pretty comfortable with my setup, but to each his own...

If you do fuse it, I think I'd go 200 or 225 amps, since at least the 3000 Warn can pull 198 amps in nomal operation.

 

If there was any serious risk of a short, all cars and trucks would have their starters fused. Just my opinion.

 

Well , actually the starter is on a fuseable link in most cars that I have worked on.

 

If I recall correctly, on most of the cars I've worked on the fuseable link is only on the wire that energizes the solenoid, and not on the big cable?

Anyway, I know on more modern vehicles the computer in the power distribution center may monitor amperage to the starter, and cut it off if it gets out of line.

 

The ANN fuse looks like a cheap and viable solution for those who would like an inline fuse, thank for the link!

 

Another good tip is to make sure the lead that goes from the battery to the winch contactor is as short is you can make it in the install, since it is live all the time.

It would be nice to find a thermal breaker for such an install. That way you don't have to carry extra fuses, or be S.O.L. if you didn't bring any.

Unrelated:
I'd like to take this time and say that lead-acid batteries suck and I love my Absorbed Glass Mat sealed battery. Never fails me.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: PoRider

Another good tip is to make sure the lead that goes from the battery to the winch contactor is as short is you can make it in the install, since it is live all the time.



It would be nice to find a thermal breaker for such an install. That way you don't have to carry extra fuses, or be S.O.L. if you didn't bring any.



Unrelated:

I'd like to take this time and say that lead-acid batteries suck and I love my Absorbed Glass Mat sealed battery. Never fails me.</end quote></div>


Good point on the making the positive cable from battery to contactor short. I subscribe to that thinking myself, and often shorten that cable and install a new terminal to avoid having a bunch of looped positive cable.

I really think that using a couple bucks of convoluted split wiring harness loom on that cable is worth it for the extra security.

Also, AGM's are great and worth the extra money especially in applications (like quads and motorcycles) where the battery will be subjected to vibration.