Snowplowing hints or techniques wanted.
#23
Here are a few plowing tips:
1. The plow skids help to prevent plowing gravel with the snow
2. If you have ice under the snow the plow can spin you around when you hit big snow banks
3. If you are going to get a big snow storm you can plow twice, over 8" you can get stuck easy, although you can get through 2' banks if you hit them enough
4. You can turn up the tention on the trip springs for plowing gravel
5. If you have a lot of hard packed snow and ice on your driveway you can take the skids off to get a better bite
1. The plow skids help to prevent plowing gravel with the snow
2. If you have ice under the snow the plow can spin you around when you hit big snow banks
3. If you are going to get a big snow storm you can plow twice, over 8" you can get stuck easy, although you can get through 2' banks if you hit them enough
4. You can turn up the tention on the trip springs for plowing gravel
5. If you have a lot of hard packed snow and ice on your driveway you can take the skids off to get a better bite
#24
Ok it is stupid question time. Is it worth the time to put a plow on a 2X4 machine? I have a Polaris 325 mag. I have pushed snow with a garden tractor with good results but was wondering if extra weight and chains would be enough. How do the 4X4 machines do with the front wheels turned off?
Thanks
Dan Daugherty
Thanks
Dan Daugherty
#25
DAN,a 2x4 quad would be ok as long as you had REAR chains.It would be just like a garden tractor but much quicker and efficient.Im telling you to ''GO FOR IT'' you wont be disappointed.My Sportsman pushes up to 6 inches of snow pretty good without the AWD on.I think my Mudrunners hav alot to do with that though.I use NO chains at all. GOOD LUCK=====BILL
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#26
I have a 97 Yamaha Timberwolf 2x4 with a 50" Moose plow and it works great. I use it to plow my 1/8 mile long gravel driveway. I just put a couple sand bags on the rear rack for added traction and it goes great. I'm sure with chains it would do even better. So I would say go for it.
#27
Dand11 I just plowed 6" of snow with my SP500 yesterday. Didn't need to use 4x4 at all except on one hill which was fairly steep. I plowed over two miles of private gravel road and several driveways. No chains on the rear tires either. Can't see that you would have a problem. Go for it. BTW, if you catch it early enough, you get to do it twice. 
Sneeky
[This message has been edited by Sneekypete (edited 12-29-1999).]

Sneeky
[This message has been edited by Sneekypete (edited 12-29-1999).]
#29
Here's what I've learned from plowing snow with an ATV. I have a 450ES witha Moose 50" plow, and use a winch to raise and lower it.
1. Chains- Don't use them unless you have ice under the snow. They tend to dig into lawns, leave scratches on concrete, and bite into asphalt.
2. Weight- Only put weight on the back rack. You already have plenty of weight on the front with a blade. I use a couple of sand tubes on the rear rack.
3. Skid pads- Use them all the time, unless you're going to always be on perfectly flat concrete surfaces. They hold the blade up just enough to get over small bumps and humps that would otherwise make your blade spring forward. They also keep the wear bar wear to a minimum. Pads are cheap to replace.
4. Side markers- Unless you're inside a cab enclosure that limits your vision, you should easily be able to see the edges of the blade. You can usually lean out far enough to see what you need to see.
In real deep snow, make the first pass with the blade up, to knock it down to a more manageable depth. Once you make the first pass, you can "nibble" away at the what's left. A strip of rubber along the top of the blade really helps in keeping the snow in front of you and not blowing up in your face.
Not claiming to be an authority, just have experience. Feel free to email with any questions.
1. Chains- Don't use them unless you have ice under the snow. They tend to dig into lawns, leave scratches on concrete, and bite into asphalt.
2. Weight- Only put weight on the back rack. You already have plenty of weight on the front with a blade. I use a couple of sand tubes on the rear rack.
3. Skid pads- Use them all the time, unless you're going to always be on perfectly flat concrete surfaces. They hold the blade up just enough to get over small bumps and humps that would otherwise make your blade spring forward. They also keep the wear bar wear to a minimum. Pads are cheap to replace.
4. Side markers- Unless you're inside a cab enclosure that limits your vision, you should easily be able to see the edges of the blade. You can usually lean out far enough to see what you need to see.
In real deep snow, make the first pass with the blade up, to knock it down to a more manageable depth. Once you make the first pass, you can "nibble" away at the what's left. A strip of rubber along the top of the blade really helps in keeping the snow in front of you and not blowing up in your face.
Not claiming to be an authority, just have experience. Feel free to email with any questions.


