Old PSAR thread - please see the new one
Originally posted by: TReX400
it'll work if you delete the https://http:// from the address
Originally posted by: RancherATCrazy
linky no worky [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] Am too [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
Originally posted by: maggiesboy
larry are you talkin about these for ute sand tyres?
time to go prep myself for some hot muddy TrAkToR action [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
RANCHER, DON'T FORGET YER AIRBOX LID! Thatss right, yer not kewl 2day [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
larry are you talkin about these for ute sand tyres?
time to go prep myself for some hot muddy TrAkToR action [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
RANCHER, DON'T FORGET YER AIRBOX LID! Thatss right, yer not kewl 2day [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] Am too [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
OK Carb Gurus. I have a problem I need help with. Trying to get the Wolverine going.
Trouble is fuel flows out the overflow tube, running or not. Plug it and it doesn't seem to affect how it runs.
Tore it down and cleaned the carb. Still doing it, although the carb was dirty and now it runs better but still has fuel flowing. Oh yeah, even with the fuel turned to off, on, reserve. No diff. I am stuck. Any suggestions?
Trouble is fuel flows out the overflow tube, running or not. Plug it and it doesn't seem to affect how it runs.
Tore it down and cleaned the carb. Still doing it, although the carb was dirty and now it runs better but still has fuel flowing. Oh yeah, even with the fuel turned to off, on, reserve. No diff. I am stuck. Any suggestions?
Jayna,
I had a similar problem, the needle valve (I believe that's what it's called) wasn't seating due to gunk. Cleaned up that area and it solved the problem. It was acting like a leaky faucet with worn washers, kept letting the bowl fill up and the only place to go was the overflow tube.
I had a similar problem, the needle valve (I believe that's what it's called) wasn't seating due to gunk. Cleaned up that area and it solved the problem. It was acting like a leaky faucet with worn washers, kept letting the bowl fill up and the only place to go was the overflow tube.
Originally posted by: HappaRap
Why thank you very much, I'll give her a whirl after dinner [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Originally posted by: Bigdaddy660R
Larry......
The caliper flotation pins need to come apart and be freed up and lubed............
Originally posted by: HappaRap
Inside pad's not touching the rotor, just one spot on the outside pad is rubbing, maybe the rotor is tweaked alittle.
Originally posted by: HappaRap Ok, pads are hooked up, I bolt the brake to the brackets and the axle hardly turns, like it's too tight between the pads. Shouldn't the axle turn easily or do I just need to burn alittle excess pad off?
The caliper flotation pins need to come apart and be freed up and lubed............
It's fine until I tighten the two bolts to the caliper, that's when it starts pulling the right pad up against the right side of the rotor. I'll give it a couple of days off and hit it again with Val's help [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Originally posted by: HappaRap
Jayna,
I had a similar problem, the needle valve (I believe that's what it's called) wasn't seating due to gunk. Cleaned up that area and it solved the problem. It was acting like a leaky faucet with worn washers, kept letting the bowl fill up and the only place to go was the overflow tube.
Jayna,
I had a similar problem, the needle valve (I believe that's what it's called) wasn't seating due to gunk. Cleaned up that area and it solved the problem. It was acting like a leaky faucet with worn washers, kept letting the bowl fill up and the only place to go was the overflow tube.
the needle and the seat need to be free of grit/gunk and operate smoothly and form a tight seal when the float rises,,,,,kinda like a toilet tank that fills up and then shuts off
with the carb removed,,,,,you can hook up a fuel line and test it when i is off the bike
also,,,the little clip that attaches the needle to the float tang may need to be rotated 180 degrees,.,,,although,,,,if it was working one day,,,,,and not the next,,,,probably not
Originally posted by: HappaRap
Pulled the pins, cleaned them up, lubed them and put it back together. There's space between the inside pad and rotor, the outside pad is still rubbing the outside of the rotor. It's like the pad is too thick.
It's fine until I tighten the two bolts to the caliper, that's when it starts pulling the right pad up against the right side of the rotor. I'll give it a couple of days off and hit it again with Val's help [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Originally posted by: HappaRap
Why thank you very much, I'll give her a whirl after dinner [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Originally posted by: Bigdaddy660R
Larry......
The caliper flotation pins need to come apart and be freed up and lubed............
Originally posted by: HappaRap
Inside pad's not touching the rotor, just one spot on the outside pad is rubbing, maybe the rotor is tweaked alittle.
Originally posted by: HappaRap Ok, pads are hooked up, I bolt the brake to the brackets and the axle hardly turns, like it's too tight between the pads. Shouldn't the axle turn easily or do I just need to burn alittle excess pad off?
The caliper flotation pins need to come apart and be freed up and lubed............
It's fine until I tighten the two bolts to the caliper, that's when it starts pulling the right pad up against the right side of the rotor. I'll give it a couple of days off and hit it again with Val's help [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]






