Oh.......you haven't put it on yet?? You will like it. I went +2 also.

 

I just got it 2 days ago still have to buy a longer chain and still trying to decide wheather to powder coat or polish. What did you notice most when you install yours??

 

Well, I polished the ENTIRE thing!! That stunk!!

I also added a +2 +4 Durablue Axle. One thing I noticed that when you are backing up while turning, you can actually get into a binding situation. My next purchase is going to have to be some +2 A-Arms. That should balance things out more.

The biggest thing I felt is how much more throttle that I could give it on take off. You will be happy with it. You may as well order yourself an emergency brake block off plate because your stock cable won't make the streach. Also, you will have to remove the little clip that holds the rear brake line on the right side of the wing arm. You will need to let it hang free unless you are replacing the lines with some longer ones.

 

Is it a pretty tight fit Air??

There were two retaining brackets that route the cables and secure them. I removed one of them, but the larger looping one I kept. I was just concerned that it wouldn't have enough travel if it was hammered through a whoop section.

Someday I may convert to steel braided lines.

 

Well, I moved PD kill switch lead off of your ORANGE wire on the positive side of the coil and extend it the long enough to reach the DYNA CDI box. Then installed a round push-in connection and inserted it into the PURPLE/WHITE connection on the new ignition. The other end of the kill switch wire I left on the NEGITIVE side of the coil. It worked great.


I added a Tach while I was at it. That looks cool!! I am really looking forward to having that available for drag racing and programming custom curves in the new DYNA ignition. I am running one that I programmed now. It feels really strong, but the first week of July will let me know how I'm doing. We are heading out to Sliver Lake again.......do some sand drags. I just wish I had this thing tuned this well when I was at Glamis!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]

 

So Greg, maybe your 686 will be able to keep up with my stock engine 660 now! j/k! I am looking forward to doing a lot of racing at SL. My rappy is much stronger now with the Edelbrock carb and propper jetting. I am going to the dyno shop next week to work on some custom curves. I am going to see if messing with the timing will make it any quieter. I would like to have one curve just for low noise to let me get into the dunes, then one for MAX power for the drags. I don't know if this is possible, but changeing the curves DOES seem to change the sound a little.

RR1

 

That's a good idea RR1.

Have any of you experienced any trouble starting in the higher settings like #3??

It has acted weird a couple of times starting it there, but then I shut it off and go back to #4 (stock curve) it seems fine.

 

If you popped the PD kill switch at all with it hooked to the orange coil wire, there is a chance that it did some damage. With mine, the FIRST time I used the kill switch is when the problem started. It acted like the starter button or the relay wasn't working properly. Sometimes I would have to hit the button a couple times before it would roll over. My shop thought I needed a new battery and relay, but then I put the stock ignition in and everything worked fine. That is when I realized what the problem was.

That may be your problem with it not starting right in certain curve settings. Maybe only one of the 4 curves got messed up. If you look at the graphs of the different curves you will notice that they all start off at the same advance setting at idle, do I don't see how one curve could start harder than others if everything is working correctly. If the problem persists, I would send it back to Dyna after the holiday to have them check it out. See you soon!

RR1

 

have any of you guys used the motor cuttout for clutchless shifting, can you tell me how it works, and if it works well.

 

Anybody?