Hello everyone, its my 1st time here, and I've got a few questions to ask you guys. I just bought a 01' Raptor660, and unfortunately it didn't come with the owners manual. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] First question I was wondering is: what is the oil capacity for this atv? I picked up on the fact that theres a dip stick in the oil resevoir up front, but do not know what amount to put in. Also I was planning on checking the valve cleareance after this weekend, and want to know what the specs. are for the intake and exhast valves. Are there any marks to line up TDC, or do you have to approx. it? I'm going to order the maintnance manual next week, but wanted to atleast get the basics of changing the oil, etc. done before I go ride it this weekend 1st. Also I've noticed on here that the 01's have a few inherent problems. I was hoping some folks could give me the run down of things to pay special attention to, etc. Thanks, and great site![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

You can down load a copy of the service manual FREE on a couple of different sites.
The search function works great on this site just type in what your looking for in the little search box at the top of the Yamaha page next to the page numbers.
The tranny in the 01 is the biggest problem, if your lucky it's been upgraded to an 02.
The starter oneway is a problem with all years, try to start in neutral when you can.
The 01s had a weaker rear axle and the rear shock is not as good.
I think the carb boots where different too, the carbs have a tendency to pop off.
Oil cap. is a little over 2 qts. Drain the engine with the plug under the shifter and the oil tank. Use a torque wrench to tighten the tank drain plug there very easy to over tighten and crack the tank. When you fill it back up put in about a qt. and a half in the tank and start the engine for about 10 sec. and shut it off and add the rest of the oil. Don't screw in the dip stick when checking.
Valve clearance in inches is .005" intake and .007" exhaust.

 

The intakes tend to tighten up. here's the tools needed and a few tips.

Tools
Torque wrench
5mm allen socket
10mm socket
19mm socket to turn engine
10mm, 17mm wrenches
The tool to turn adjuster would be nice but I use needle nose pliers
Angled feeler gauge .005" intake .007" exhaust
Big flat head screw driver to remove timing covers

Turn engine over counter clockwise when aligning the timing marks. After your intakes open then close it's about a half turn of the crank to align the marks. There are two sets of marks that look like this ( ll and l ) use the (l) mark you'll come to the (ll) marks first.

When making the adjustment I snug the lock nut just enough that I can still turn the adjuster. Then snug the nut down a little more with a wrench while holding the adjuster so it does'nt move, then torque and recheck clearance.

 

Thanks sixsixT. I actually already used the search function to find the service manual, and now just have to load 320 some pieces of paper into my printer.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Thanks for the heads up on some of the inherent probs with this model as well. I had heard that the rear axle and carrier were suspect on this model yr, but was hoping that since I have no intentions of riding mx with it that I shouldn't have too many problems. I have also noticed the shifting to be notchy, nothing bad, just finding neutral tends to be a little tedious sometimes. Thanks again.

 

You could print every other page(odd#) and flip your paper over and print the other pages (even #). Just a thought.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

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As sixsixT mentioned, needlenose pliers work but I use a #2 square head screw held with vise grips to hold the adjuster.