Hello all. Well I just got my 3rd raptor tonight. Its an '01. The thing runs and shifts good, but it is a pita to start. YOu have to crank on the starter for a while before it will finally start. Then when it starts you have to idle it really high until it warms up. I'm talking idle screw almost all the way out. After it is warm then you can idle like normal. My question is first off, what are the things that could be making take so long to fire up? I am going to replace the sparkplug tomorrow to see if that helps (what do I gap the raptor plug at) Also, what would make it need to idle so high until it was warmed up? My old raptors started right up with no issues. Thanks.

Mike

OH yah, and its not the starter one way bearing. Everything is working, its just not firing right up like it should. What I don't understand is that once it has been started and warmed up, then it will fire right up and idle just fine. It is only when the bike hasn't been ridden and cooled down. Also does anyone know how I can remove the sparkplug? I don't have the raptor toolkit. Will yamaha have one of those tools they can sell me you think? Thanks.

 

It sounds like you might be able to adjust on the mixture screws and get it to start a little more easily. One thing you said kinda threw me. This was just a mis type right? To idle it up the screw should be turned in.

The plug gap escapes me now, your Yamaha dealer should be able to tell you. I am sure somebody with half a memory will post it though. LOL


I use a 19mm deepwell socket and a short extension (2" I think) to get my plug out. Just back the plug out and slip the boot back down on it and pull the plug out. If the motors not hot you can sometimes grab it with a finger and slide it out.

 

for the starter........go to www.raptortranny.com, my dad and i have recently done all the steps and ordered the l and a one way bearing........oh and dont let the guide fool you it is very easily done within 1-2 hours

 

Take the end of the choke cable out of the carb and clean it. They are notorious for corroding and getting grundgy. They just don't work well when the get dirty. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

While you are at it, take the carbs off, and pull the float bowls, clean them up with a good carb cleaner, and reassemble. Then run the valves. It worked wonders on mine. I also reset the pilot screws. I believe they are now out 2 and 3 turns. I dont remember for sure, but they are out about a half turn more than the stock setting. The bike loves it. It is no longer cold blooded.

 

Ward, I thought it was an 18mm. I think thats what I've been using on mine? I also agree with the pulling the choke cable out and cleaning. I did it to mine last week, and it was just NASTY!!. I imagine yours has probably never been cleaned.

 

I hasseled with using the socket and rachet a long time before I realized the socket and wrench in the tool pouch makes it much easier to get the plug out.

 

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll see what I can do and see how it turns out. This is my 3rd raptor but I have never jacked with a carbureator before. I'll see if I can't figure it out. As far as the idle screw goes, for now lets consider it a misprint. It was late late last night when I was posting lol. If it turns out it was not a misprint, then I'll let yall know and we will have a very weird problem on out hands [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Ok might as well ask since I don't know how to do this. How do I take the carbs off and pull the float bowls? Will I have to jack with jetting if I do this? Also, what do you mean run the valves? Thanks.

 

I have the same problems, either check the air/fuel mixture screws, or spray some starting fluid on the filter before it cranks up

 

Fool around with the screw on the throttle plate, turn it in and see if that helps. Check your valve clearence also, tight valves cauld cause hard starting idling and bottom end hesitation, and burn a valve as well.