boy some of you guys give crap for info!
if your going to replace the piston get it bored to 686,it should only cost 40-50 bucks more to have it bored.go with the stage 2 cam and springs,and replace the intake valves with some quality ones,plus the +1mm intakes are the same price as the std size
why spend a bunch of money to get crappy results when for a few bucks more you wont say i wish i would of went bigger

 

I think the rod is around 175 but the right way to do it is to have the crank sent out and have it trued and balanced at the same time and is about 400 including the rod.
If your going with the 11:1 stage 1 with only 50 hrs. on the engine and don't plan on a lot of drag racing you should be fine with your stock rod.

 

I say yes...in fact I say yes to any kind of engine work to get a new rod...mine blew so I'm cautious about it.

 

If I get it bored I was told I was getting into the area of could start getting unreliable. I have the money but like I said I dont race but I do want more power and to have absolutely no problems going up the big hills at Glamis. The main thing I want is RELIABILITY, and the power. I dont want to have to run staight race gas, I dont mind 50-50. So.......stage 1/2 and whats the difference? New rod or not? Bore it or not?
For what I want what do you think?
I'm sure there are those of you out there who are at all stages. what do you think, how do you like it.

 

If you have the money and dont mind spending it go ahead and get the new corilla rod; it will be more reliable and stronger than the stock rod and give you better piece of mind. I do believe your stock rod could last a lot longer but there again if you go ahead and get the Corilla rod you want be wondering if and when the stock rod might go and cost you a lot more money. I would also go ahead and get the new heavier valve springs along with the stage2 cam. The stage 2 will give better top end over the stage 1 and you should still be able to trail ride or whatever just fine. If you have the money and dont mind spending it for the extra power and most importantly the reliability go for it. Slim

 

Stage 1 is more mid range and a little top end the 2 is a little mid and more top end.
I would get it bored and go 102mm (686) the cyl. needs to be fitted to the piston anyway.
When changing the piston weight it's a good idea to get the crank assembly balanced and if your going to do that might as well put in a rod. It wouldn't be nessessary but would be the right way to do it.