Raptor Overheating WTF!!!
#15
Bigscary !
for how long have you been having this heating problem. Did you have it after the install of your 686 kit?
I have been having this problem eversince they put my 686 piston along with hotcam stage 2.
first I thought it was jetting problem (too lean) when they first put the kit it had 170/175 mikuni jets with the needle on 4th notch. so I thought I would up the jets a bit to see if this helps, I ended up putting 180/185 jets and moved the needle one notch leaner (3rd notch) and I might sound crazy but the bike seemed to overheat even more now (before the coolant bottle would get full and start spilling the coolant after maybe 15 minutes of riding, now it does it in 10 minutes or even less) I am not really sure about that tho. so far the overheating light never came on.
can I still ride the bike untill I replace the head gasket? or I should just leave it untill I get it done ? like what I said, so far the over heating light never came on, and the coolant gets spilled till it gets to a bit below empty, then it gets to above full after riding it, and if I fill the bottle again, it would spill the coolant untill it gets below empty and then it stays there and stops spilling.
Adel
for how long have you been having this heating problem. Did you have it after the install of your 686 kit?
I have been having this problem eversince they put my 686 piston along with hotcam stage 2.
first I thought it was jetting problem (too lean) when they first put the kit it had 170/175 mikuni jets with the needle on 4th notch. so I thought I would up the jets a bit to see if this helps, I ended up putting 180/185 jets and moved the needle one notch leaner (3rd notch) and I might sound crazy but the bike seemed to overheat even more now (before the coolant bottle would get full and start spilling the coolant after maybe 15 minutes of riding, now it does it in 10 minutes or even less) I am not really sure about that tho. so far the overheating light never came on.
can I still ride the bike untill I replace the head gasket? or I should just leave it untill I get it done ? like what I said, so far the over heating light never came on, and the coolant gets spilled till it gets to a bit below empty, then it gets to above full after riding it, and if I fill the bottle again, it would spill the coolant untill it gets below empty and then it stays there and stops spilling.
Adel
#16
This is probably not the cause for your problems but it has been for others and the topic pertains to this post. I noticed you said, "I'm running straight Engine Ice antifreeze." I am not familiar with this brand. Is it a ready mix? I would like to point out that many people run straight unmixed antifreeze which can be detrimental to your engine. Antifreeze is composed primarily of ethylene glycol which has a very high level of volumetric expansion and moderately high level of heat tolerance as well as an extreme level of cold tolerance. However, in order to provide your engine with the best cooling and smallest expansion/contraction of cooling fluid due to temp change, it is necessary to mix the antifreeze 50/50 with water. Some antifreezes are now coming ready mixed with water and can be added directly but most still need to be mixed with water to provide your engine with the best protection from overheating.
~HoundDog
~HoundDog
#17
Good info Hound Dog, didn't know that. I knew I should mix it, but I didn't know why I should.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]
It depends on how severe it is blown. To get water in the oil it would have to be a pretty bad leak, letting enough water in the cylinder to go past the rings. To see steam, well I'm not exactly sure why you don't other than its than its just not enough water for you to notice, or the way its blown it is just bad enough to let a little compression through it and the cooling system doesn't put up enough pressure to make it leak into the cylinder.
If the head gasket is blown wouldn't there either be water in the oil, white smoke coming out the pipe or a leak somewhere around the head?
#18
I posted this before , but I had the same problem with my HP gasket. I retorqed it and all is good. My 12:1 686 doesn't run any hotter than when it was piped and jetted. I don't have a gauge on it but I'm going buy how hot if feels while riding,idleing,ect.. The water in the puke tank only moves about 3/4" from dead cold to normal temp. When mine puked it would blow water/antifreeze all over the swing arm.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
BTW = I say retorqed the head gasket, I didn't use a torqe wrench [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]. I was out in the middle of a trip to the dunes. So they are probibly tighter that suppose to be.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]
BTW = I say retorqed the head gasket, I didn't use a torqe wrench [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]. I was out in the middle of a trip to the dunes. So they are probibly tighter that suppose to be.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]
#19
but I had the same problem with my HP gasket. I retorqed it and all is good. My 12:1 686 doesn't run any hotter than when it was piped and jetted. I don't have a gauge on it but I'm going buy how hot if feels while riding,idleing,ect.. The water in the puke tank only moves about 3/4" from dead cold to normal temp. When mine puked it would blow water/antifreeze all over the swing arm.
oK how did you retorqed the bottom bolts, did you use a torque ranche? and how easy is it to torque the 2 bolts under the head cover, do you have to take the cam off, or it's just done by taking the head cover off, retorque, and put it back. sorry I never worked on a bike b4.
Adel
#20
I know it's not 100% right but i used a reg box end wrench on the two bottom bolts. You should be able to retorqe the 4 bolts under the valve cover by simply pulling the cover. Just a hint there are 2 allen bolts under the inspection cover for the intake valves. (dont forget these).


