I am trying to install a new set of pads, and a new rear disk. The problem is that I can't get the caliper mounting bracket to compress enough to let the pads slide it on over the disk. I have compressed the piston as far as it will go, and I still can't get the pads over the disk. Someone out there has had this problem before, I am sure! Please help!!!!

 

If your piston is all the way in and it still won't go you may have to break the bleeder loose to let it collapase more. If it is still giving you trouble it could be the mounting pins. The caliper is supposed to slide in and out on those pins (float). If they are stuck that may be what's holding you off.

 

I believe it is the mounting pins. One is a allen head, and the other is a stud, no allen socket. Actually, it is the mounting bracket itself that is holding me back, how do I get the caliper to slide on the pins?

 

With the complete assembly off the machine you should be able to move your caliper on those mounting pins or vice versa. If the caliper doesn't slide on the pins easily, they are probably full of mud and rust. You can loosen the allen headed one and it should slide of the other one easily, may have to work with it a little. As far as the one with the allen head it should slide back and forth. If it doesn't you may have to clean them out with contact cleaner. Be careful of the rubber seals. Once you have it apart clean the mounting pins, I always use some steel wool, and then lube them with grease, caliper lube or an anti seize compound. The caliper should slide easily on the pins, straight in and out with out much side to side motion. Your brake pad mounting pins should be cleaned as well. If you need to see a parts diagram you can see them at Riva Yamaha's website. The diagrams they have are factory yamaha microfich exploded diagrams, shows all these parts well.

 

Just to follow up, the caliper slides and seals are not serviced by Yamaha. BUT, Suzuki does sell and service them. 250 Quadracer I believe. The Nisin rear caliper is used on a bazillion sport bikes.

 

Thanks for the help guys, I guess I will have to take the caliper off and work on it on my workbench. I gotta tell ya, This is getting real old, problems with the rear wheel bearings, my friend messed up the threads on the end of the axle during re-install, and now I have to get a die on it to fix it, now problems with the brakes, and I haven't even started on the "Clunking" when you turn the front wheels. I am beginning to think I should just get it back together and give it back to my cousin and not buy it.

 

Don't give up hope yet. I didn't know about being able to get the slide pins from Zuki. Thanks Lotus.
As far as the clunking in the front wheels, Could be a U-joint. They are fairly easy to change. If it is the CV axle its not that hard to change either. The U-joints can be crossed over at some auto parts stores. Thats what I did and saved over $200 against the factory parts. The Cv axle will be another story. I don't know of any other place to get them but a dealer. The good thing about them is that me or my pals have never had to replace one. I use a needle tip for a grease gun and add a little grease from time to time. I just peirce the boot with the needle and pump some grease in. Then take a dab of silicone sealer and smear on the hole. I have had people tell me they would leak but mine don't. I do use armor all on the rubber to keep it from dry rotting.

 

Update: The rear axle and caliper are now at a local machine shop. The axle is getting the threads repaired, and the owner said that he will try to get the mounting plate screw for the caliper out. I took off the caliper, and tried to remove the mount slider screw for cleaning, but i just managed to spin off the allen surface on the slider-bolt. Just my luck. So....add another $50.00 for machine shop service, and then maybe, just maybe, I can tackle the front end. And BTW, I'm SURE it will be the CV joints, it's just my luck. I hope not. I am getting a little upset at this thing. First, I have to spend about $130.00 just to get the Wolvy running, now, I have spent $120.00 on rear bearings, brake pads, and brake disk. Add another $50.00 to the machine shop, and that's $200.00 and I've only rode it up and down my driveway ONCE! This sucks A**

 

I gave $95 for a rear brake disc once when my ex step son ran it with the pads worn out. $120 is not that bad for every thing you put in that rear. Look at it this way, ya know it's all new and you won't have any trouble for years. It kinda seems the Wolvy wasn't kept up that well. It's tough when ya let a few things add up and try to fix it all at once. Beleive me I've done it before. That's why now I always try to fix every thing a soon as possible,till it don't pile up on me. The Wolverine is a very reliable machine. I had 3 pals buy them when they came out in 95, and 4 other pals that own or have owned them. We have never seen an internal engine problem out of all of those Wolvys.
One thing I would do is search around for parts before I went straight to the dealership. It seems that I have saved a lot by shopping around.

 

Hey man I know where you are at, when I bought my 95' Wolverine from my cousin, it had been rode hard and put away wet. At this point, I have rebuilt the whole machine over time. Some of it I didnt need to do but I like to go fast and I went with a little overkill. Ive been down that road before, put all new wheel bearings, universal joints, rebuilt the rear end housing, engine, exhaust, transmission, ignition, brakes just like you, only the second time I tore the caliper off and had to get a new one. There isnt many things that I havent done to a Wolverine. I stipped it down this summer as far as you can and rebuilt it from the frame basically. My uncle told me he had never seen one stipped down that far before. Hey when you get done though it will be a nice machine.