Also make sure the float levels are right. Mine was way out. The factory doesn’t set them right. When I used the clear tube method the fuel level was about 5 mm above the carb split. Most people say it should be level or just below the split. In any case check the levels. It caused the bogging on my bike.

 

27.5 pilots are not gonna give you the problem you are describing. I have ran 27.5's since my Raptor was only piped and it ran fine. My guess(es) are first check the carb boots for rips, then check the float levelm, then I would suspect one of the pop in needle / clip assembly was not secured correct and came loose.

 

Keep us posted RAPTER, i just order the GYT-r JET KIT and k&n filter with Adapter plate and a slip on pro-circuit t-4 for my 04 raptor. It should be here in a week or so. So i will probably be asking for help in a week or so. Any good advice please let me now. Thanks. And RAPTER good luck man i hope you get your ride going.

 

I'll keep you posted but I won't be able to get to it for a couple weeks I have a big test I have to study for. So you might get done before I do, but here is one tip I could give you be EXTREMELY EXTREMELY careful when unscrewing the 8 screws that hold on the float bowl covers. They are so soft you'd think they're made out of butter. If you do strip them you'll have to drill out the tops or grind with a dremel. I got Allen head screws from lowes that fit perfect I saved a package so I could give you the part # if you need let me know.

 

Ok well I went and checked the floats and they were WAY OFF so I adjusted them and changed the pilots to 25. Now shes starts and runs but when I go through the gears from a stand still it boggs slightly in second and doesn't seem to have that much power through all the gears. Then stalls when I let off the gas. This is my current setup: Full sparks, Foam Pro-flow, GYTR jet kit 155/160 3rd clip 25. pilot, 2 1/4 out. What does that mean and how do I fix it? Thanks

 

sounds like you are still a lil fat on the bottom.......I would go in just a lil more on the mixture screws........

 

Thanks I'll try 2 out instead of 2 1/4

 

When you blip the throttle in Neutral, the rpms should drop right back to idle. If rpms drop below idle and then return to idle, the idle circuit (A/F screw) is rich. If it takes a half-second to drop back to idle, the idle circuit is lean. If you play with the A/F screw and blip the throttle, you'll hear the differences. You floats must be set properly so they don't flood the idle circuit. All other jetting works off the idle circuit so it's important to get that right before moving on to mid and high rpm jetting. I made 2 videos of my motor starting and running, they show a correct idle adjustment with a few blips of the throttle. PM me with your email and I'll forward them.

 

You probably need to turn the screws out, a little over 2 1/2 turns. The further out the richer on a raptor.

 

I tried it with 2 3/4 out and still no good so I tried 3 1/2 out and still no good. Then I put in the 160/165, stock pilots, 4th clip, and 2 1/2 out. Now it boggs towards the end of the gears and shuts off when I let off the gas after running through the gears it also backfires as I downshift. Seems to pull stronger then the 155/160. It also stays at high rpm when I first start it and when I blip the throttle. What could be the problem and how do I fix it?