whew i hope my wolvy isnt this hard when i try changing the oil.

 

what he said

 

I feel your pain man![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img]

Those bolts are hard as h**l to get out and the bolt material is pure cr@p. I stripped the one on my wife's Warrior so bad that I barely got it out. I used a smaller socket and hammered it onto the stripped head then used a breaker bar to get the thing off. I now have a couple of spares in my toolbox just in case. When you put the new one in, do not overtighten it. It has a rubber o-ring so it doesn't need to be that tight. Tell your dealer they need to check thier torgue settings because that thing should not be that tight.

 

If it's that tight, I would take it back too the dealer and let them deal with a stripping bolt or the bolt breaking off. I would tell them up front that they overtightened the bolt previously and I am only paying for a standard oil change even if it takes hours too get things correct.

 

The key is the vibration. one of the previous posts said that he hammered a socket onto the hex part.

If you tap around the drain plug, not too harsh, and not directly in the center - it is weekest there for a direct hit, then the viberations will aid in loosening it.

In fact, once you get your breakover or ratchet on it, smack it lightly with a hammer while trying to back it out.

Hope this helps.

 

You're right about that. The reason for hammering a smaller socket onto the hex was that it had already started to stip. It's an old trick and one that often works. It sounds like this guy has already started striping the head so he shouldn't keep using the same socket...it will only get worse. If you hammer a smaller socket on the head do so nice and easy just tapping the thing on. If you do this, you should not have to worry breaking the thing. Also, stay with a 6-point socket.

Then again......you might just be better off taking it back to your dealer.

 

The more you mess with it, the more it's your fault if the drain hole gets stripped or something. You really should have taken it back to the dealer and let them deal with it. Then if they were to strip the drain hole, they'd be responsible. If you want to continue, I'd spray the bolt with some PB spray and let it sit. Them maybe you should try to get a locking plier on the bolt and then put a pipe over the end of the pliers. Turn it slowly and just plan on replacing the drain bolt. It really shouldn't be this hard to get it out. The dealer could have messed it up without you knowing at your last visit.

 

think that hammering a smaller socket onto a stripped screw would help with getting the stripped screw on my air box lid off?

 

It's worth a try. Is that a hex head screw? Get a socket that is just a little under-sized and be gentle when tapping on the socket or you may break something. The idea is to get a tight enough fit that you can break the thread loose without slipping on the bolt head. You have to understand that the hex head bolt / screw will have to be replaced once you get the thing off. For a smaller one like the one on your airbox, I might recommend using an easy-out if you can't get the thing out.

 

If this is the same as the Wolverine I had to use a pipe wrench. Get on the edge and it should come off without hurting anything. I know I will get ripped for this, but it worked for me. I also had to do this on my buddies. You only have a small lip to work with but it will work. Start the motor and let it warm up before you do this though.