How many of you have had to replace front wheel bearing in the first year or two actually any bearings for that matter on the entire 4-wheeler. Please note your riding conditions. (muddy, grassy fields, trails, etc...). I have had my share of problems with mine and I ride mostly trails and woods. I am trying to find where I can ride my Wolv so the extended warranty I bought (which is a mistake I know now) will cover the problems I have been having.

Thanks in advance

P.S. Please don't just read and not answer I am sure that if I put something in here about the new Raptor I would get answers. Just think this is Yamaha's Warranty not just Wolverine so the first time Yamaha says they won't cover the new ATV everyone doesn't panic. They are trying to cover less and less as it is.

 

I replaced my front wheel bearings when I had the motor torn down. The stock ones were in good condition though. I ride mostly on hardpack, with occasional mud and water, but more water. I put the sealed bearings just because I knew there would be problems down the road with the stock ones. They were only about $8.00 a piece, so its cheap insurance. Get the sealed ones from Dennis Kirk. Got the seals from the dealer.

 

I replaced the stock bearings with sealed ones and added grease fittings so I could keep the steering knuckle full of grease so water and mud can't enter as easy. The orginal bearings lasted 8 months, the replacement bearings last about 12 to 14 months. Be careful when greasing, you can push the seals out, one squirt will do!!!! I ride in alot of mud and water.

 

Harold, do you have pics of where you put the fittings. I want to do the same, but dont know where to put the zerks.

 

the brakes and front bearings on mine went fast and needed replaced its a 99 go to www.geocities.com/hillsvillespage/home.html to see it my blaster, and are zilla

 

I think you'll find that almost anyone you ask, will tell you that they've replaced their front wheel bearings within the first year, if not the first month. It's a design flaw that Yamaha isn't in a hurry to fix because they're selling replacment bearings for 2 or 3 times their worth. Because of the water and mud the bearings are exposed to, it is absolutly necessary to replace the origional bearings with sealed bearings. You can buy them at any shop that specializes in selling bearings. Just look up "bearings" in the yellow pages. Don't buy them from the bike dealer. Also, when you change your bearings, look at the part of the axle that the seal fits on. If there is a grove worn under the seal, you will need to have it repaired, otherwise water and dirt will get in under the seal. Any machine shop can fix it with a speedy sleeve.

 

I had a 98' I thought I road it quite a bit in every Type of train I can thik of mud, sand dunes, water crossings, dirt roads, grass pastures, and rocky terain. I never had to change any wheel bearings but I did have a problem with an anoing sqeeking from some bushings up front. They day I brought it home from the dealer the battery leaked all over the rear axle and my new byfold ramps not to mention the bed of my truck. I am sure glad they put a sealed battery in my 00' Kodiak. The local dealer would not honor the warranty and repair the problem or the then rusted components. The selling dealer sent a service man to my house over 300 miles from his store to repair the problem. I was amazed.

ps. you can cancel you extented Yamaha warranty at any time. I have on three different bikes and you get a partial refund. Now days I just skip the extended warranty and at the first sign of trouble or every year or two trade up.

 

Had a friend who had a 98 with 25" tires on it. He loved mud rode in it a lot. He had to replace his front wheel bearings every 3 months or twice a riding season. He was using aftermarket ones too. He accepted it as his price to pay for playing in the mud. When he found out otherwise he sold it.

98 SC 500

 

not only are the front wheel bearing systems flawed, but also look out for holes in the swingarm boot that will allow damage to the rear end seal in the swing arm housing, also look out for damage to the rear end bearing behind the seal on the open end of the rear axle. last but not least the carb top and cut off valves are plastic components of the carbs that can be chafed through by the air cleaner and cables running by the carb. please check because you cannot buy these parts without buying a whole carb. i just remembered front ujoints are also flawed but the ujoints out of early 1970's era toyota corolla will fit exactly and have a grease nipple. oh and dont forget about the air screw that seizes in the carb housing, you should check this at least every six months for free movement because if it seizes and the screw head strips it means another carb. that's enough for now, any further questions just ask, i have a 98 wolverine with 17000 kms (10000 miles), boy i have a lot i can tell you.

 

i no some one who has to take his the shop every 2 to 3 mounths for things like that. Now it is going to cost $1,000 this time to get it out of the shop. I will never get a Wolverine.