First off, thank you Killercuda.

Answers to questions...Manual and Auto clutch simultaneously.

Put it in gear.. if you do not squeeze the manual clutch lever, the bike will move when you apply throttle. If you do squeeze the manual clutch lever, you will not move. Look at it this way.... Once the clutch mod is made, you can ride it as if you never did anything to it. Or, if you want to clutch to shift, or need to get your revs up before dropping the clutch, simply use the newly installed manual clutch. Personally, I do not have the manual. I talked to Mickey about it and it got me thinking about it some more. I like to investigate in advance and file all the information away for future reference.

Question #2's answer.

Fortunately for me, my bike was modded by Mickey Dunlap personally before it was ever ridden by the original owner of which I purchased from him just over a year ago. SpDdEmOn would be better capable of answering pricing questions for you. In fact, his list of mods is pretty healthy and include most of what Mickey offers. You can however, pick and choose. A good conversation with Mickey about your intended riding will determine what you really need.


Question #3's answer.

Funny you should ask about switching carbs. A buddy of mine has an '03 Wolverine. He has recently purchased a brand spanking new Warrior Carb for it and a used Warrior header, both compliments of E-Bay. Anyway, we will be installing it sometime in the future, but not exactly sure when. I am quite comfortable that we can make her sing.

The airbox mods I am currently using consist of a different airbox to carb hose. This was done by Mickey and looks very much to be to be the airbox to carb hose from a Honda 350x. Since then, he has come up with his own "Kit" commonly know as the FST Intake Kit you will read about every now and then. (Approx. $100 which includes a new hose, air filter mount, and filter). In addition to this, I opened up the top of the airbox via an aluminum frame with virtually the same material as a K&N Outerware epoxied to it (note this was done in a silkscreen facility so the material is quite tight). This opening is roughly 3" x 5". All of that topped off by a K&N filter.

As for jets, I am using a Dial-A-Jet (I honestly believe it helps with quicker acceleration and to minimize the change-over points between carb circuits and helps me to quickly rejet as I like to ride various temps and elevations. My main jet is merely a factory #130, factory needle in the (I believe) third clip postion, and a top secret pilot jet. Let me do some more testing to prove the validity of my pilot jet theory and then I'll let others in on the secret. Now, don't run out and throw the same number jets in a similar machine, cause it will respond completely different. I purchased an air/fuel ratio meter and installed an oxygen sensor into my exhaust to make sure my jetting is dead on. Keep in mind every machine will run differently.

As for the others that think this post is too long, If I were to pm him, how would all the other people that are interested in this post get to read it as well?

Let me know if I can help you out any further.

Ride On.

 

Good info, indeed.

I was considering a carb switch for mine, and had a lengthy phone chat with Mickey Dunlap about it. I asked him which way to go on carbs, and he said for a Wolverine motor, the stocker is the way to go. I said "are you sure?", he said yes, stay with stocker, do the airbox and intake mods, and put on a good slip on. Of course, he highly recommended a stroker kit.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

i dont understand that.you would think that a bigget carb like a 38mm would give you alot more power like it does for other quads with mild boring?i think i would at least put a warrior carb on it.the wolverine's carb is the same as the beartracker and its a 250.just dosent seem right.i think im going to just do the regular manual clutch mod when i get it.thanks for clearing that up 95Wolverine! i dont want to spend more than 3000 on one.they are hard to find for that.it seems like everybody wants 3500 or 3800.i dont have the money yet anyway.

**whats the best year to look for if pirce didnt matter?

 

Keep in mind that a larger carb could take away some of your low end, which is not a good thing if you run any kind of oversize tires (as most do). With it's relatively tall first gear, losing low end on a Wolv would hurt you in the mud.

All years are the same, excepting the 95's, those differences were noted above. Just try and find one that has been well cared for, that's all.

 

prolly wont do much mudding.mostly higher speed hardpact dirt trail riding.with some hill jumps and mild jumps.the reason i want 4x4 is for the winter and i will do some creek riding.this quad i think will suite me very good for what i do.i cant wait till i have enough money to get one.

 

Hey LotusPosition.... Between you, I, and SpDdEmOn, is there a mod we don't have for the wolverine?

P.S. What is a TPI Valve? Or are they a brand of valves and you forgot your "s"?

Ride On.

 

LOL on the mods.

The TPI valve is a closeable/adjustable filtered vent for your airbox lid. You can see it here: http://www.thunderproducts.com/tpi_valve.htm.

I use the lowboy version, am considering adding a second one.

 

Sorry about the late reply, I was working all week out in the snow. Good Info 95 Wolverine.

Pricing:
435/446kit: $649 - standard 11:1 comp
Manual Clutch: $150
Port and Polish: $184
Cam: $150
Race Valve Springs: $95
High-Flow Intake: $75
Heavy duty clutch springs (included in stroker kit): $15
Top End Gearbox kit: $250


My manual clutch kit is like a manual clutch on any other race bike. I stalled it a few times getting used to it. You have to use it to take off and stop, its a real manual clutch. Although if you dont want to shift using it, you can do like on any other manual machine and shift without it as long as you know how and dont miss a shift, that would be hard on the transmission. If you do it correctly though, no harm will be done.

Power, horsepower will be doubled. It runs good. I can be in 2nd gear going 10mph and hammer it and it will stand up, it will power wheelie in the first three gears if you want it to. Sounds odd, but its hardest to wheelie in first because it goes though it so fast, i dont really use it. After consulting with Mickey, I am going to put a 36mm Mikuni/ White Bros. Race Carb with an acclerator pump on it to shift the powerband a little higher. If you are running 25in tires, dont do this, it will take the low end away. This is the reason that Mickey doesnt recommend it. I will always be running 23s and running them through the woods fast. I dont need as much low end as mudboggers do.

Will it run with a 400EX, depends on your mods to be honest. Mine certainly will. I will be able to outrun them when my jetting is fine tuned. Even if they had a higher top speed (which they wont) I would be far enough in front to stay there. If you do all low end modifications, then the answer would be no, you will be able to keep up, but not win any races. I out accelerated a Scrambler 400 4x4 when my jetting was terrible, so I dont think that the 400EX will be that big of a deal once its perfected.

There are little things that you can do to a stock Wolveirne that will make night and day differences. It isnt so much of a weakling as its made out to be.

95Wolverine - The header pipe on a Wolveine and a Warrior share the same diameter. I dont think the Warrior header will bolt up because I think it needs an extra bend in it. Let me know how it goes.

As for having all of the mods between us, hmmm neither of us have the 500, because the quite making it but a friend of mine "Tripower" has it. I dont have a cam...............yet......hehehehe. I think that about covers all of which we dont have.

I dont think I missed anything, if I did just reply to it and tell me anyting else that you want to know and Ill be glad to answer it.

Lotus how has you bike been running?

 

The bike has been running really well, the plug is burning a nice shade of brown. Definitely the best it has performed since I bought it.

It's no 435 stroker, but it runs as good as an unrebuilt 97 probably ever will. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

I'm going on a winter snow ride this weekend, with a fairly large group. It will be my first time out with the Elkas. Hopefully they will live up to expectations.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

man.i cant wait till i can get this.finding a job is a pain in the ****.ive seen many decent ones for $3000.i figure on spending that much.ill deffinately want the manual clutch,probably an intake set-up(pro design or FST?pros and cons.),and a k&n.pipe(which is best for this bike?).and definately a warn 424 select.ya just gotta have 2wd sometimes to play with.let me know what are the best of these things guys.you guys know ur wolverines and have BAAAAAAAAAADDDDDDDDDDDDD machines.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]