ok I'll run duel carbs & t5's. Can you explain how to sync the carbs and how to remove the TORS? I would appreciate the help. Thanks

 

I just had a very reputable World-Wide Engine builder state to me that alot of the +2 up 1 stuff and shortening swingarm depends upon the weight of the rider... I was thinking about +3 up 1 and he said that he only runs up 1 in the desert, he is about the same weight as myself 'around 215lbs., and with that much body-weight there is no need to go 1" forward nor shorten the swingarm... He also stated that the +3 causes the Shee to 'push' through the corners.... According to this highly knowledgeable individual the up 1" and shortening the swingarm is primarily usefull for riders around the weight of 145#. So he is setting up my TCS shocks for +2 a-arms. I have +4 dura blue in the back. I ride only MX, and would like to achieve the 50" width... Will I? Not sure yet.... But I trust this dude because he has the experience to back it up................
Uh, on the motor though I agree with the post saying that the Toomies are a 'high end pipe', and agree that you would probably be happier with a more of a lower end pipe such as FMF fatties or Gnarlies.. I know that my 370 LR Shee has a smooth PB, and it comes to life as soon as you twist the throttle and not at some high RPM like some bikes do....

 

Can you explain how to sync the carbs and how to remove the TORS? I would appreciate the help. Thanks

 

Uh why? The smaller carb (26+26mm=52mm vs. a 35mm or whatever the single is) would work against the high end pipe.. This would not be a good combo.. First of all, loose the stock airbox before the filter falls off and replace it with a pro flo.... Not a K&N unless you are going to be riding in the sand.. A foam has much better better filtering capabilities in the mud, dirt, dust and whatever else you will be riding in the woods. Put your 'LOW-END' pipes on, maybe some V-Force reeds, a Cool Head with some smaller domes, rejet it.. and BOOM you have your bike that you want.. That is my .02/worth... I wish that someone could help me with my dilemna now with my chasis modifications!!LOL

 

I race Harescramble races on my Banshee, and I highly recommend the 2 into 1 carb. I didn't lose any top end power whatsoever! Since I'm a tall rider, I'm gonna switch to pro peg nerf bars to switch the weight to the rear more. As said earler by someone else the banshee is front heavy.

I also had the cylinder head shaved for more compression, which helps the low end power.

Now I just need to get my thumb working properly so it doesn't tire out during the race when I'm on the gas hehe.

 

Can you explain how to sync the carbs and how to remove the TORS? I would appreciate the help. Thanks

 

SaMs0n

Can you tell me what carb kit to run? and what pipes? This is so confusing

 

Anyone

 

Most of the answer to your questions are in the previous posts... Get some FMF fatties (they can usually be found on E-bay for a good price!!), replace the air filter w/a pro design setup w/a foam filter NOT K&N, jet the carb... And see how it feels... If this is not enough, purchase a Pro Design Cool Head with smaller domes, If this is not enough buy some Delta V-force reeds and rejet it again, if this is not enough, send it off to an reputable engine builder and tell him to weld your crank, put a Long Rod in it, bore it a lil, advance the timing, and have him port it..... If that is not enough, well, if you are riding the woods I am sure that you will have your desired power before you need to send it to an engine builder LOL....

 

Keep stock carbs. 2-1 limits power

Get fattys, Gnarlys, pro circuts, or pt mids, Fattys are great espicialy if you decide to port

T-5's are definitly a top end pipe.

Tors removal kit from vitos' has instructions.

Get head milled 30 over.

If you want gear down to a 13 for more power but I prefer gear ing up to a 15 you dont have to shift as much.

As for the raptor you should be a bit faster. and they sit to dam high.