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my raptor break in

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Old 06-28-2004, 09:26 PM
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when i got my raptor, i let it warm up for long periods and took it easy until a predator challenged me into a drag. this was about after 4 or 5 hours of nice easy wear on my new engine. i killed it, without going all in, like i didnt redline anything anytime and wne kinda easy, but managed to beat the stock pred easy. do u think that this was a bad idea?
 
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:08 AM
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I think you will be just fine. Good to hear you whooped the predator. Check out this page about some unconventional break in methods. There is alot of information, but this is how I broke in my new 11:1 686.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It has worked for me. I am getting great power. We will see how ring life and compression hold up over time.

RR1
 
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:21 AM
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Originally posted by: RaptorRacer1
I think you will be just fine. Good to hear you whooped the predator. Check out this page about some unconventional break in methods. There is alot of information, but this is how I broke in my new 11:1 686.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

It has worked for me. I am getting great power. We will see how ring life and compression hold up over time.

RR1
Yep, thats how I break in all my bikes. Its the fastest way to do it. Just be sure you warm it up first.
 
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Old 06-29-2004, 12:54 AM
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also if you go to

http://mototuneusa.com/thanx.htm


there are 24 other articles this man has wrote, if you have the time, i suggest reading into some of these.
 
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Old 06-29-2004, 08:48 PM
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Those sites don't talk about breaking in a complete new machine, just top ends. The Raptor also has a transmission to break in, a clutch to break in, main bearings to break in, big end bearing to break in, small end bearing to break in, cams to break in, not to mention every other bearing that the quad has. Also check for any oil or water leaks & check all hoses, clamps & fasteners.
 
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Old 06-29-2004, 09:01 PM
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Originally posted by: Froooo
main bearings to break in, big end bearing to break in, small end bearing to break in, not to mention every other bearing that the quad has.

im eager to hear your reasoning behind having to break in the bearings...either the balltype or rodbearings...for ball bearings, the ***** come pre-polished and are fitten to the tightest clearances, so if you break those in, you wear out a little, and loose that tightfight and get a loose bearing.

Ball roundness and size as well as surface finish
are held to a micro inch specification.
1 micro inch = 1/1,000,000th ...
... one-millionth of an inch !!
The races that the ***** run in are finished to this
level as well.


also for the rodbearings, they dont need a breakin, its just a half circle of metal, with a steel back, copper middle section and a top layer called a babbit layer

Embed-ability
The babbit layer is about as soft as lead, and it can be easily scratched by harder metal.
This is by far the softest metal in an engine.
The purpose of this soft metal layer is so that any metal fragments in the oil supply will embed into the soft bearing, leaving the expensive crank unharmed.
The copper layer is harder, making it an ideal 2nd layer material. It's hard enough to support the babbit layer, while it's soft enough to allow it to "give" when a bit of metal is embedded in the babbit layer.
The steel layer gives the bearing its strength and "spring" so it can be installed with a slight interference or press fit into its housing.
Because of the embed-ability requirement, the bearings are fragile. If there is crank journal to bearing contact while the engine is running, the soft
babbit layer is easily damaged.

Bearings are fed pressurized oil. This pressure is critical, because although the crank can push the oil aside, it's the pressure which keeps the crank from breaking through the oil film
to contact the bearing.

the page i got this info from was off of the link
http://mototuneusa.com/circular_logic.htm

if you can prove me wrong...pls do so, I wouldnt mind an interesting debate.
 
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Old 06-29-2004, 09:03 PM
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Default my raptor break in

also found this on that page.

[quote]


New Nissan Cars Fully Blasted:
A number of years ago I was in Japan working for Nissan Canada and we were invited to visit an assembly plant. You should see the final road test they submit the cars to on a dyno. The driver floors the accelerator and takes vital statistics from dials for about 3 minutes. If they pass this test they are OK. The Japanese must be laughing when they read the lines about engine break in.
All of the motor vehicle industry insiders have been laughing at this situation ... for a long time.
New Ford Cars Fully Blasted:
I once took a tour of the Ford plant. The engines are all dyno tested and screamed to top RPMs at full throttle. That's when I knew the easy break-in engine damage warnings weren't true. The funny thing is that they checked my bag for cameras or video recorders -- that's not allowed !!
Why all the concern about video & camera equipment ?? If there's nothing to hide, why is there an effort to hide it ??
New Honda Motorcycles Fully Blasted:
At Honda at Marysville Ohio the new bikes are strapped to a dyno wheel and run to red line
and at over 100 mph before it is crated up and shipped.
Didn't they read those easy break-in articles ?? After all, they helped pay for them.
Diesel Blastage @ Ford:
I can only speak for 1.8 Diesel for Ford as that's what I'm assembly engineer for, but once the engine is built its conveyered into a cell and then started. After idling for 30 secs (with a lot of auto checks on oil pressure, coolant temp etc etc) it's then taken up in 500rpm increments every 10 secs until the grand finale of 10 secs at max no load speed. I still cringed this afternoon when I walked past them screaming (as much as a diesel can) away. Of course, every so often half way through this a con rod will emerge from the side of the block but this is what the test is for, to show up any manufacturing defects.
Screaming Diesels !!
New Aprilia Motorcycles Fully Blasted:
Every bike that leaves the Aprilia factory (and every other OEM factory)
goes through each gear to the {rev} limiter, no bull, its part of quality control.
Bikes used to come in without the high speed indicator reset, quite often the bikes would have 175mph on the dash. I saw a Factory {model type} with 182mph on it, and I know I sure didn't do it.
{Note: the 2 bracketed comments are my additions ~MotoMan}
 
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Old 06-29-2004, 11:45 PM
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breakins are so you have less time on your warranty to make a claim[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
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Old 06-30-2004, 01:06 AM
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Just ride it like you stole it from the get-go, If you're clearances are'nt right from the start, what makes you think they will change if you baby it hours on end, clearances will be what they are at the build period, babying it will only hurt your ring seal and future H/P output.

I have built countless engines, and tried every break-in out there (myths)

Hammer it from the start and you will reap the benefits, if it comes apart, it was not built properly
 
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Old 06-30-2004, 01:17 AM
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Default my raptor break in

make sure to warm up the engine before hammering the throttle....
 


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