I haven't taken it yet, but I will let you know the outcome....thanks

 

I will never have a problem with the check ball in the gas cap because I removed it and threw it in the trash.

 

I spoke with Yamaha and I was told that the problem of stalling might be a result of steam rising into the carb and spark plug. I was told to check the spark plug and when I did, it was humid in the shaft. When I verified with my finger, it was humid and it was water and not gas. I rode my bike that same day (never went into water) and it ran just fine. I ask Yamaha if they had any solution to the steam problem, and I was informed to create a shield to protect the carb from the rising steam. Has anyone ever heard of this being done before?

 

The carb doesn't need protected from steam. The intake does. I would just stuff some muffler packing into the gap next to the airbox on both sides for about 2" and it should help. The plastic kind of contains the steam and directs it into the intake. When I rejetted it really helped my machine because it never happened again. I think that it could be a pluged breather hose on the gas cap like they mentioned earlier. I would pack the spark plug boot with Dielectric grease and grease the seal on top of the boot. That should keep the water out.

 

Thanks for thr reply "batmanacw", but can you be a little more specific on the following points;
1. What does "rejetted" mean?
2. Where exactly do I put the muffler packing? Please be more specific about where it goes. What gap next to the airbox?

thanks

 

Jetting refers to the parts inside the carburater that control the flow and emulsion of gas to create the mixture. The steam comes from the hot engine touching water. The steam comes up around the airbox and into the intake under the plastic that covers the gas tank. Take your seat off and you will see what I mean. Look directly down next to the air box and you can see the engine. I would pack it next to the air box for a couple of inches back from the front to redirect the steam. Anything that you pack in their cannot be burnable, because it could dislodge and fall on the exhaust.

 

I just thought I'd let you know that I think My buddy (who rides a Polaris), who rode with me yesterday, figured out why my Grizzly was stalling all the time. We rode in water and mud covered the tires and it was not until 3 hrs into our ride that my bike began to stall and die. He knew right on the get go that there was a firing problem. We took out the spark plug and tested it. The plug was defective, it was grounded.... so it was not sparking at the end, but rather the spark came from inside the plug. I changed it today, and I plan on riding this weekend to do the final test. Batmanacw and the others, thanks again for all your past help and suggestions.

 

I am no sure what to make of your last post. How did you test the plug? The plug is grounded by design when it is installed into the head. Also, I couldn't follow what you meant when you wrote that the "spark came from inside the plug". Not trying to pick on you, just I am not sure the plug is the problem. One reason for thinking the plug is fine is that any shop that is smart enough to replace the rev limiter pin under warranty would have checked the plug first thing for defects. Yamaha does not like to replace anything for free even when they should. If the dealer could have billed you for a spark plug repair bill the would have.

 

I left the plug still attached to the top wire. When I turned the motor, the spark of light that is usually produced at the tip of the plug, instead, it was sparking from inside where there is a gap. If you look down at the end of the plug where the spark would come from you will notice open space. It was from this space where the spark came from. Did I explain it better? As for the Yamaha dealership, well, I'm not too impressed. I'll call them tomorrow and ask them if they checked the plug. By the way, I paid for the rev-limiter, not Yamaha.

 

The spark should jump from the center electrode through the gap to the grounding electrode. The spark itself does not ignite the fuel mixture, it is the heat energy the spark produces within the gap of the center electrode and ground strap. If the spark traveled from the center electrode to the threaded portion of the plug it is fouled. But if I understand your post, the plug seems to be fine.

All of this is a moot point because plugs are cheap and easy to change. It will eliminate the plug as the cause.

There are other things that can cause an engine to misfire and other causes is what I would be looking for from what I have read here.

Also If I paid to have the rev limiter pin changed because the Dealer said it was the cause I would look for a refund.