what's the best air pressure and shock adjustment for a grizzly 660 2003. summer riding.

 

with a utility quad i would go w/ the recomended pressure. on my mag its 5 in front and 4 in the rear. and i have never had a issue with doing that. i hope that helps.

 

between 4.5 and 7lbs is what i usually run on the scrambler

which tires are you running

 

Mine are Dunlop. Standard tires for the Grizzly. What about shock spring adjustment? Any suggestions?

 

I would consider keeping the front tires stiff to keep the side walls from flexing while you turn. If they flex too much they will grip and lift the inside tire off the ground. I changed them out pretty quick so I didn't have a lot of time to play with them. I do alot of trail riding so I keep the suspension soft so I can keep the CG low. I really lean into turns and I ride pretty far forward on the seat so I can sit on the tire on the inside of the turn. This drives the tire into the dirt and squats the suspension on that corner which creates a good situation for stability.
I would try running about 4.5 psi in the front and 4 in the back.

 

Thanks Batmanacw.
Did you experience problems of stalling? I'm having a terrible time with the heat. The dealer and Yamaha so far haven't been able to help. My bike stalls after going through water. Not deep water. I think it's a result of the water hitting the engine and creating steam. The heat kit was already installed, but that didn't seem to help. Do you have any suggestions?

 

I have a bit of advice on tire pressure. Check pressure when you get to where you're going to ride. Your altitude does come into play on tire pressure. I've gained up to 3-4 pounds pressure going from the valley floor up to 7000 ft. level. My tires look flat when i get home, with them set for mountain riding.

 

I originally had steam problems. I rejetted and it stopped completely, even before I got the new side panels. I am not sure why it stopped, but I haven't had a problem since. I am thinking about making some sort of a vent to put in the plastic over the gas tank to help vent the steam just to be sure. I was thinking about packing some muffler packing material inbetween the air box and the frame for 2" to block some of the steam from the intake. I don't know what it will do to the air flow, but it is a cheap thing to try. Just don't use anything that will burn if it falls on the muffler pipe.

 

Doesn't that bother you that you have to deal with this kind of problem? I'm so fed up with the dealer and Yamaha tring to fix their design flaw. This is so discouraging that I'm ready to sell and buy something else. My Grizz is un reliable, and that makes my outtings stressful. Mine was already rejetted. I need all the help that you can get me. Can you call Yamaha US at 1-800-962-7926 and ask them what they are doing for this problem? The weather here in Canada is not as hot as in the US, so I think that Yamaha US has been dealing more frequently with the stalling issue. If I get no help, I think it's time to get nasty and let the legal recourse into the equation.
Do you think you can help ????

 

Probably not but I hope that you can get this stuff figured out so you don't have to struggle with it. They definitely need to rethink the snorkle design. If it is colder up there the air would automatically be denser. May be you are a little lean. Mine was from the factory. This would cause it to run hotter. They try their best to get the jetting right for all machines in all circumstances, but it may be impossible. I have always been told that all machines are a little different and so I think that their jetting can sometimes be wrong. Try running it at WOT on a gravel back road and then slam on the breaks and kill the engine and pull the plug and see if it is white. I was told that the insulator should be brown but not always. The electrode strap should be brown from the bend to the tip. That is supposed to be a more accurate indicator. My electrode was very light brown, but the strap was perfect brown the length from the bend. Also, I like the new needle taper that came with the Dynojet kit because it is much richer/thinner toward the end. I think that it works better than the stock design. Try running at 1/2 throttle for a while and then recheck the plug. Same rules apply.
I know that this is a pain and you shouldn't have to do it, but you won't believe what it is like to get it right.
Holy cow!