HELP WITH VALVE LASH ON 02 RAPTOR 80
#1
09-05-2004, 02:57 AM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HELP WITH VALVE LASH ON 02 RAPTOR 80
MY SONS RAPTOR WILL NOT START. IT HAS FIRE, GOOD STARTER, GOOD BATTERY, FROM ALL THE READING I HAVE BEEN DOING ON THIS WEB SITE IT SOUNDS LIKE I NEED TO AJUST MY VALVE LASH.
CAN SOMEONE TELL ME HOW TO ADJUST IT IN DETAIL, IF YOU CAN. I HAVE NEVER ADJUSTED VALVES BEFORE, BUT I WANT TO LEARN. I AM DETERMINED TO GET THIS YAMAHA GOING, EVERYTIME MY SON
WANTS TO RIDE I HAVE TO GO OUT AND PUSH HIM DOWN THE HILL TO JUMP START IT, GETTING OLD.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CAN SOMEONE TELL ME HOW TO ADJUST IT IN DETAIL, IF YOU CAN. I HAVE NEVER ADJUSTED VALVES BEFORE, BUT I WANT TO LEARN. I AM DETERMINED TO GET THIS YAMAHA GOING, EVERYTIME MY SON
WANTS TO RIDE I HAVE TO GO OUT AND PUSH HIM DOWN THE HILL TO JUMP START IT, GETTING OLD.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#2
09-05-2004, 04:37 AM
HELP WITH VALVE LASH ON 02 RAPTOR 80
before you adjust the valves, did you clean air cleaner really good, and clean carb really good, including jets?If so,
ALWAYS MAKE THE VALVE ADJUSTMENT ON COLD ENGINE!!get the engine to TDC on the correct stroke (pretty sure it's compression stroke). I am positive it is the stroke where you can wiggle the rocker arms a little, with the timing mark at TDC.This is the stroke the piston should be at when the valves are adjusted. If you rotate to TDC on the other stroke, the rocker arms will be tight and you won't feel them wiggle (DON'T adjust on this stroke).
There is one intake valve, and one exhaust valve. They are covered by shiny metal caps on the cylinder head and can be removed with a 19mm (?) wrench. pretty sure about the size. On the Breeze, there are 2 access plugs on the right side of the engine (flywheel area). I ASSUME the Raptor 80 is the same. If not, the principal is the same. You need to be able to see the timing mark on the flywheel, and make sure that it's lined up with the stationary mark.there are 2 plugs as one is to see the marks, and one is to rotate the nut on the flywheel to get it so you can line up the marks.
on my Honda XR70, I have to remove a cover/case to see it. They usually make it easy to get access to see the timing marks on the flywheel and the fixed mark that doesn't move, that you line it up to.
So, now you're ready to FIRST check the clearances and then make the adjustment if necessary. you need to find out the spec for the valve clearances, and you also need an angled feeler gauge. they're usually really thin gauges that are hard to find in the special valve feeler gauges. I just bought a regular set of feeler gauges and took out the 2 I needed and bent them. they're so thin, they'll just stay bent. check the clearance between the valve and rocker arm. usually it's your intake valve that's a little tight if you're starting is tough. often, I've found the exhaust valve was still in spec and didn't need adjusting.
if you need to adjust, you loosen the nut on top of the valve with 2 wrenches, one 9mm wrench for the nut, and a tiny size wrench to hold the valve while you loosen the nut. I used a small set of needle-nose vice grips to hold the valve while I loosened the nut. once nut is loosened, you can turn the valve easily by hand, maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 turn until you're back to spec. check with feeler gauge. you should feel slight drag on feeler. once you've got it, be careful to keep valve in position and tighten nut (using your 2 wrenches). double check clearance again, after nut is tightened. there is a tendency for it to move a little during tightening. it may take a couple of cracks to get it where you're happy.
it's really not that hard and takes 30 min for you/me, 15 min for someone who does it all the time. I have an old Yamaha manual if you want me to fax you a pic with instructions on Tuesday. It's for the MOTO 80, but i believe it's the exact same drive-train as the Raptor, different plastic. I can also get you the valve specs. PM me your phone # and I'll stalk you, I mean call you [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img], or just PM your fax # if you prefer.
okay, now you HAVE to let me know how this went. BTW, a dealer should only charge you 20 mins for this. Mine charged me $30 (Can) when were on holidays and i didn't have the time or tools to do it.
ALWAYS MAKE THE VALVE ADJUSTMENT ON COLD ENGINE!!get the engine to TDC on the correct stroke (pretty sure it's compression stroke). I am positive it is the stroke where you can wiggle the rocker arms a little, with the timing mark at TDC.This is the stroke the piston should be at when the valves are adjusted. If you rotate to TDC on the other stroke, the rocker arms will be tight and you won't feel them wiggle (DON'T adjust on this stroke).
There is one intake valve, and one exhaust valve. They are covered by shiny metal caps on the cylinder head and can be removed with a 19mm (?) wrench. pretty sure about the size. On the Breeze, there are 2 access plugs on the right side of the engine (flywheel area). I ASSUME the Raptor 80 is the same. If not, the principal is the same. You need to be able to see the timing mark on the flywheel, and make sure that it's lined up with the stationary mark.there are 2 plugs as one is to see the marks, and one is to rotate the nut on the flywheel to get it so you can line up the marks.
on my Honda XR70, I have to remove a cover/case to see it. They usually make it easy to get access to see the timing marks on the flywheel and the fixed mark that doesn't move, that you line it up to.
So, now you're ready to FIRST check the clearances and then make the adjustment if necessary. you need to find out the spec for the valve clearances, and you also need an angled feeler gauge. they're usually really thin gauges that are hard to find in the special valve feeler gauges. I just bought a regular set of feeler gauges and took out the 2 I needed and bent them. they're so thin, they'll just stay bent. check the clearance between the valve and rocker arm. usually it's your intake valve that's a little tight if you're starting is tough. often, I've found the exhaust valve was still in spec and didn't need adjusting.
if you need to adjust, you loosen the nut on top of the valve with 2 wrenches, one 9mm wrench for the nut, and a tiny size wrench to hold the valve while you loosen the nut. I used a small set of needle-nose vice grips to hold the valve while I loosened the nut. once nut is loosened, you can turn the valve easily by hand, maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 turn until you're back to spec. check with feeler gauge. you should feel slight drag on feeler. once you've got it, be careful to keep valve in position and tighten nut (using your 2 wrenches). double check clearance again, after nut is tightened. there is a tendency for it to move a little during tightening. it may take a couple of cracks to get it where you're happy.
it's really not that hard and takes 30 min for you/me, 15 min for someone who does it all the time. I have an old Yamaha manual if you want me to fax you a pic with instructions on Tuesday. It's for the MOTO 80, but i believe it's the exact same drive-train as the Raptor, different plastic. I can also get you the valve specs. PM me your phone # and I'll stalk you, I mean call you [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img], or just PM your fax # if you prefer.
okay, now you HAVE to let me know how this went. BTW, a dealer should only charge you 20 mins for this. Mine charged me $30 (Can) when were on holidays and i didn't have the time or tools to do it.
#4
09-06-2004, 03:28 AM
#5
09-07-2004, 12:04 AM
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Alex Rodak
ATV Videos
2
09-13-2015 12:30 AM
Alex Rodak
Yamaha
0
09-12-2015 09:39 AM
Alex Rodak
Introduce Yourself
0
09-11-2015 11:42 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)