banshee crankshaft
#5
banshee crankshaft
William Holgren can sit on a crankshaft and rotate. G3's---[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]
Basic things you can do to a banshee crank:
Stroke- The rod pin is moved closer to the outside of the bobweight. This increases the amount of travel of the piston.
Long rod- Stock rods are 110mm long. Long rods are 115mm. The longer rod keeps the piston at TDC and BDC slightly longer. They also reduce sideloading on the piston because they aren't as flat of an angle when the piston is at BDC.
Truing- Basically balancing and making sure all of the journals are in line.
Welding- The rod pin is pressed into the bobweight. Many times the bobweight can rotate on this pin, throwing the crank out of true. Welding the pin to the bobweight keeps the pin from turning.
Pinning- The next thing above welding. You drill through the bobweight, through the rod pin, then a pin is pressed in and tack welded in place. The only way the bobweight can rotate now is if it shears the pin. Shearing takes a LOT more force than breaking a weld.
TZ bearing- The right side outer crank bearing is under a lot of force at high HP output. More than once i've seen the outer race of this bearing shatter. Instead of a ball bearing like stock (ball also comes on weisco cranks) the TZ bearing is a flat roller bearing. Its nicknamed TZ because it comes from the Yamaha TZ race bike.
Rod bearings- There are also some better lower rod bearings. They contain a couple more rollers and can hold quite a bit more HP.
Basic things you can do to a banshee crank:
Stroke- The rod pin is moved closer to the outside of the bobweight. This increases the amount of travel of the piston.
Long rod- Stock rods are 110mm long. Long rods are 115mm. The longer rod keeps the piston at TDC and BDC slightly longer. They also reduce sideloading on the piston because they aren't as flat of an angle when the piston is at BDC.
Truing- Basically balancing and making sure all of the journals are in line.
Welding- The rod pin is pressed into the bobweight. Many times the bobweight can rotate on this pin, throwing the crank out of true. Welding the pin to the bobweight keeps the pin from turning.
Pinning- The next thing above welding. You drill through the bobweight, through the rod pin, then a pin is pressed in and tack welded in place. The only way the bobweight can rotate now is if it shears the pin. Shearing takes a LOT more force than breaking a weld.
TZ bearing- The right side outer crank bearing is under a lot of force at high HP output. More than once i've seen the outer race of this bearing shatter. Instead of a ball bearing like stock (ball also comes on weisco cranks) the TZ bearing is a flat roller bearing. Its nicknamed TZ because it comes from the Yamaha TZ race bike.
Rod bearings- There are also some better lower rod bearings. They contain a couple more rollers and can hold quite a bit more HP.
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07-07-2015 11:00 PM
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