Mine also came with visually obvious toe-out from the factory. It's going in for a valve adjustment/service soon, so I'm going to have them check that, and make any necessary changes while it's there. And they better cover that under warranty. I'm not gonna pay for Yamaha's snafu.

Sven:
So adjusting it back to a toe-IN setting made that much difference in handling huh? Because mine is most definitely toed OUT. You can see it if you get in front of the machine, and look at it straight on. Does it help with more precise cornering? Mine feels a but mushy going into corners, and I suspected it was the stock tires rolling under some at lower pressure, but maybe there's more to it. (I'm STILL gonna replace the stock 2 ply tires though-probably with some Bearclaws. Maybe Mudlites.)

 

Kodiakmudslinger,

I haven't had time to put a lot of miles on the bike since I adjusted the front end but my initial impression is yes, it does seem to corner better (easier). It also tracks much better when going straight. That is, it doesn't jerk the front end back and forth every time one of the wheels hits a bump or rut in the trail.
By the way, it took one full turn on each tie rod to change from 3/4 inch toe out to 3/8 inch toe in with 26 inch tires

 

first.......thank for checking specs,

here is the problem ,
it seems all kodiaks I have seen have " toe -out " alignment from the factory, hard to believe they would have messed up all of it.
my understanding is that 4x4 have toe out while 2x4 have toe-in this is also true for trucks. due to the fact that when the front axles drive/pull they have a tendency pull the tires inward.

also it seems that yamaha specs are with the ATV raised off the ground.

I don't know..... it just hard to believe that all kodiaks would have it set wrong from the factory.

did you get the specs from a 05 kodiak factory service manual?
if yes can you double check the way it has to be measured, with vehicle on or off the ground.

thanks

 

zseibi,
Yes, I got the specs from the YFM450FAT supplementary service manual that I ordered off the Yamaha web site. I also got the main service manual, which covers Kodiaks prior to 2005.

This is from the main service manual:
Adjusting The Toe-In
1.Place the machine on a level surface.
2.Measure toe-in

I agree with you that it seems strange that they are shipped from the factory with so much toe-out when the specs say they should have toe-in.

 

well.......toe-in it is, I guess its time to adjust !!!!

thanks again

 

My 04 Kodiak is 1/2 in. toe out in front. I guess I'll adjust the toe in to 3/8 in tomorrow. I see on this forum that some say the bike should be jacked up when setting the toe in. I can't believe that could be correct. The wheels camber in when the weight is off them.

Thanks,
Marc

 

Syclone91, keep us posted. I'm going to work on mine this weekend. I know something is out on mine cause one half of the tire is wearing twice as fast as the rest. I too think you should not jack it up.

 

O.K. CamoKokiak, here is what I found: When you jack it up(I actually hung it up with and engine hoist) the toe out changed from my original 1/2 inch to 1 1/2 inches. You can see the bottom of the tires cam in when you take the weight off. So---- wherever some got that info I'm sure it is incorrect.
I kind of lost count but I think I widened the rear of the tires 1/1/2 turns on the tie rods on each side to get mine to come in the 7/8 I needed in front.(17mm for lock nut and 19mm to hold the tie rod end.)
I cut a 1'X1" stick the exact lenght of my narrowest measurement and it worked better than trying to hold a tape.
When I first got the thing set to where I wanted it I would take it out for a spin and when I came back it wouldn't still be correct. It took 2-3 times to get it to suit me. I finally got it to 3/8 toe in in the front.
I always come into the shop straight on and not let the bike back up. This comes from some old time alignment I used to do on cars at a dealership. I don't think that is too important for us as our front ends probably don't have a lot of wear. I also would take note to keep the flop on both tie rod ends centered when adjusting them. In other word not having them both at the opposite max thus creating a bind when the steering is at far left or far right or the bike is in a crab situation such as an angle crossing of a ditch.
Hope this makes sense. Marc

 

Syclone91, Thanks. With all this information from this site I think I'm ready to try it this weekend.

 

Camokodiak:
Does yours handle differently or "better" now after the adjustment?