I have a 04 YFZ and the stupid battery keeps on dying and it never has enough power to even turn over

 

Take the key out when your done [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

why

 

The Battery is DEAD, go buy yourshelf a NEW one......that might solve your problem[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Buy a new battery or attempt to charge it. Once you charge or buy a new one keep your lights on at all times! Keep them at lo or hi no matter what! Having the lights of just keeps the battery a the level so each time you start it it decreases the charge, lo or hi charges.

 

so the battery doesnt die..

 

ok, jump start it, and run with your headlights on!!!!! yea it sound silly but it works, the head lights allow the charging system to put out more energy and it actually charges the battery when your puttin around at low RPM... This has been addressed in other threads. check the search..

 

man...i saw a yfz in the back of a truck cruisin around town the other night. it was soooooooo pretty, it almost made me wreck [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img]

 

Listen, instead of guessing and spending money on new stuff while hoping you are having the same problem as anyone else has had, do this FIRST.................... Test your bike and your battery. Test not guess. 1st thing to do is to check the bikes running voltage at the battery compared to the vattery voltage you get with the bike just sitting there. Should jump up at least by 1 volt when the bike is running compared to not running. If it does or does not then you can look into the headlight suggestion. Simple to do there. Check the voltage with the bike running and headlights on and headlights off. See what happens. Ther person suggesting the headlight trick should have their regulator checked. Regulators turn on and send a charge to the battery at a specific voltage. Some are set to shut the charge off to the battery at 14.2 volts, some at 15.2 volts depending on manufacturer and use of vehicle. UPS and mail trucks are usually set higher for the excessive stopping and starting. May well be set to 15 1/2 volt regulation. The headlight theory actually breaks the voltage regulation theory. Example, if a bike was not putting out enough voltage becuase of the reason (that this dealer told our kind friend online hear attempting to help you) tthe battery would still run down to a certain voltage which in turn would cause the regulator to start sending a charge to the battery. Turning the headlights on would only speed up this process by draining the battery faster. The result is the same though. It is only a numbers game utilizing battery voltage as the controlling factor or the controlling number. A regulator simply sends the stators charge to the battery when the battery drops to a preset(setting built into the regulator) voltage. Period. Forget these myths. This helper online is inly passing on what a dealer or mechanic that does not fully understand the theory of electricity and electronic components is telligng our friend here. So lets assume your test shows the bike does indeed jump up at least one volt when it is running over just sitting there not running. Then this tells you the charging system is working. At least to the point of work load you have just expsed it to with the headlights on and possibly a cooling fan on. Now if the charge is present but the battery continues to let you down. There are a few other good possibilities. TEST for these, don't guess. Take a terminal off of the battery. Connect your digital (hopfully you have one) voltmeter or multi meter and measure the voltage. Measure it again in about 15 minutes. Do this a few times. If the voltage is trickling down a little bit at a time over a few 15 minute periods you probably have a bad battery. Internally shorted cells from sulfication. Now lets say the battery doesn't drop, two possibilities exist. One is the battery is too coated with sulfer but is not shorted internally creating a low reserve in the battery even at a full charge. You would have to do a current load test on the battery. A garage can help you. It should be able to put out x number of amps for 15 seconds. that is the typical current draw test on a battery. Now lets do another easy test in the mean time that is a big possiblity. There could be a drain in your bikes circuitry. A short. This is easy to test for. With the keyswitch off, disconnect either battery terminal, preferably the negative to avoid accidental shorting from the positive to a bike ground by accident with your screw driver/socket etc. Take a test light (looks like a screw driver handle with a point awl on the end) and put the cable clamp from it onto the disconnected battery cable and the point of the tool jamb down into the battery terminal itself. The light should stay off. If the light comes on it is showing you the actual electricity that is draining out of your battery to the bikes ground somewhere thru a short. Leave the test ligth connected and shining light. You can use it to pinpoint the problem. Start wiggling wires and even disconnect harness connectors and within a minute or two you will make that light go out because you will at some point break the circuit to the short. If the bike has a fuse box with several fuses, unplug the fuses one at a time. Works great especially on cars. Once you unplug the fuse for the bad circuit the light will go out and you start working along that circuit, unplugging connectors and wiggling wires in case they are rubbing ground. There are only a few things that cause a low battery. Forget buying anything til you test. The headlight thing is a mis understood phenomenon. A stator puts out a certain amount of volts at a certain rpm, period. Nothing can change the properties of a stator. A regulator simply turns on and off at a preset voltage it is what it is from the factory, non adjustable. Different current draw levels (ie from headlights being on, cooling fan kicking on during a hot day, hand grip warmers) from the battery only increases or decreases the cycle between these on and off cycles. Period. There may be a defect in the regulator not switiching until the battery is too low and the rider is is lucky to shut the bike off just at the point the regulator sends the charge to the battery long enough after it did its switching action from the battery getting low. A bad battery could possibly benefit from this becuase it has sulfer build up and heat breaks this sulfer down temporarily. A busy voltage regulator can heat up a battery temporarily breaking up the sulfer coating over the lead cells exposing more acid to the lead creating a greater charge reserve. Ignore myths and stick to testing and actual theory, you will save a lot of money in years to come.

 

^^ haha , good joke, like im going to read all that, lol![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]