I can not buy a GYTR jet kit as they are backordered till May, so I am stuck with my dynojet kit. In the instructions for the GYTR kit what mods do you have to had done before you change the pilot jets? I can buy the pilot jets from my dealer but am unsure if I need them? I know there are a bunch of you raptor owners with these kits so I would love some info.

I have a full GYTR exhaust system not just the muffler, a proflow k+n kit (same as GYTR) and run with the airbox lid on. What jets clip positions and pilots should I have????

 

No GYTR guys out there???

A little help here someone???

 

I know someone must have a set of instructions...please[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-frown.gif[/img]

 

Can't help ya with the GYTR instructions, but you should'nt have to change your pilot's unless you have some internal mods, such as cam , piston, etc. By the way, did you check your float level???

 

Yes I set the float level 2mm less than stock just like the dynojet tech guy told me...don't really understand what that does??? anyone know why they tell me to lean them 2mm?

 

Ok i scanned the Instruction sheet, whats your e-mail i can send it to you. oh and BTW, i dont think you should set your float level 2mm below, you can set the fuel level 3mm above the split, and it actually gives you 3-4 more HP. heres a link...... ok nvm i cant give u a link because i cant write Blu E Traxx and its part of the address.... looks like atvconnection is afraid of a little competition, eh? here ill copy and post it.
Now to check the float levels. Please follow this exactly! To start do the following. With the float bowls removed turn the carbs upright. (the same way they are mounted on the motor) The floats are now hanging fully opened. Now slowly start turning the carbs to 90 degrees with the openings that connects to the motor facing down. Move the carbs between upright and 90 degrees and look at what the floats are doing. When the carbs are nearly at 90 degrees you will notice the floats move and suddenly pause. It will pause for a little and if you keep turning it will start moving again. You need to find where it pauses and hold it there. It is the position where the floats touch the needle valve pin. Measure between the split (place where the float bowl and carb comes together) and the little shoulder of the float. It should measure 13 mm. The image is showing you how to hold the carb in the right position to measure the floats.
The floats on my bike were out so I had to adjust it. The level was to high. If you need to adjust the level, you need to take the floats off. There is one screw that holds it in place. Remove it and off comes the floats. A small little needle valve will be dangling on the float. Take care of it. The picture below shows it apart.
With the floats off, you will notice a small little metal thingy at the back of the floats called a tang. You need to bend it to get the right float level. Bending the tang down towards the bottom of the float will lift the float level. Bending the tang towards the top of the floats will lower the float level. Adjust it, put it back in the carb and check if it measures to 13mm. Make sure you measure it as explained above. PLEASE NOTE. The 13mm measurement is pure a guideline. See the clear tube method later in the post to make 100% sure the float level is correct.

I had another problem. After adjusting the floats to 13mm the floats would not open correctly and restrict fuel delivery. You can test to see if you have the same problem. With the floats adjusted correctly and fitted in the carbs, turn the carbs upright and hold it there (Same way as they are mounted on the motor). Now blow into the fuel pipe that connects to the fuel tank. It should flow air very easily. Make sure that both carbs are flowing. Press each float softly upwards till it stops flowing air. If you let go of the float is should flow air again. If it does not flow air, or has a restricted flow, you have a problem. You need to mod the floats. It should flow easy, but keep in mind there is only a small little hole. To be safe it will not hurt doing the float mod anyway.

The picture below shows the float level mod. Take a small little file and file down the little plastic stopper at the back of the float. DON’T shorten it. Take a 45 degree angle off it. Take note, it should look like the float below. The screwdriver is pointing at the little stopper.
After this mod it should open real easy and you should have no problem blowing thru the fuel intake pipe when the carbs are the right way up.

When this is done and the floats are set correctly, put the carbs back together. Take note not to tighten the screws to much. When the carbs are all back together and you need to putt them back, I found that I struggled with the rubber intakes on the head. To prevent it from sticking to go back in, make sure the clamp screws are loose all the way. Then dip your finger in some fuel and rub it inside the intake. With the fuel still wet, the carbs will slide in real easy.
Clear Tube Method

Now to check the float level with the carbs in place. This method will make 100% sure the float levels are right. You don’t have to tighten the clamps on the rubber intakes to check the float levels. Do that once the level is correct.
1st put the fuel tank back, again don’t worry about tightening it up. Connect the fuel intake hose from the carbs to the fuel tank and open the little tap. The fuel should now flow into the carbs. Check for leaks. If none, you check the floats using a clear tube. The size of the clear tube must just fit the little drain hole on the bottom of the carb. I showed you before where this pipe connects. The picture below shows you the clear pipe and the screwdriver is pointing to a small drain screw on the bottom of the carb. Point the clear tube up and above the section where the carb and float bowl joins. Open the drain screw and you should see fuel run into the pipe.
When the fuel stops flowing, tap the pipe a little to make sure there is no air bubbles trapped inside it. Push the pipe against the carb and the fuel level should be 3mm above split between the carb and the float bowl. When this is done close the drain screw. You will have to move the clear tube and go to both sides of the bike to check the two carbs. Don't try checking it from the same side. See picture below. PS. my finger is not pointing at the fuel level, it is only holding the pipe in place.
If it is not correct you have to bend the little tang on the float up or down to get the level right. 13mm as explained above work almost all the time, but I have had some cases where it needs to be at 14,15 or even 16mm to get the clear tube level of 3mm right.

When you are happy with the results, tighten up all the clamps, put it all back together and make sure there is no bolts and nuts left. PLEASE NOTE. When you tighten the rubber intakes onto the carb, they sometimes move and cause gaps and little air leaks. Make sure they are mounted correctly and they are not pushed open by the clamps.

Hope this explains more clearly how to get the carbs set up right and you find it useful.

 

Wow!!!![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] Thank you very much for your help 86LT250... I have private messaged you so you can e-mail me the info you have and the pictures you refer to in your message. I had never thought of checking fuel level in bowls like that and it just makes perfect sense. What makes no sense is why that tech guy at Dynojet told me to lean my bowls fuel level from 13 to 11mm. He is the one who told me to run 170/175 jets too and I can assure everyone that is way too rich if you run a stock motor with just a pipe and intake. I have had no fun at all trying to get this bike to run right since giving it more air by drilling the lid, I really hope this solves my problems and will keep everyone up to date so they don't share in my pain when they do this mod.