anyone know how to bleed the front hydrualic brake system on a raptor

 

not sure, i only know how to do the rear?? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Close the bleed screws and build up pressure. When the front brakes applied crack the screw to let out any air. Keep doing this until you get a steady strem of fluid coming out with no air bubbles.

 

As the guy's above says, however remember to hold the lever to the bars --close the bleeder screw --then release the lever. If you let it go with the bleeder screw open you will suck more air in. I recomend pumping at least one resovoir full of fluid through the left caliper then one through the right. This is easier if you have a friend pump while you open and close the bleeder.

 

Thank yall very much for the help, i really do appreciate it, i got one of those yamaha service manuals that cost like 50 bucks [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] and its basically greek to me trying to read it and make sense of it. I've been tryn' all weekend to get this right, now i might jus be able to. Jus one more question, does the master cylinder cap need to be closed and screwed shut while i'm doin this? and as far as opening the bleed screw, how much do I turn it, alittle? a lot? I have been tryn' what you all suggested and still keep gettn a lot of air in the line. Must be somthing i'm doin, they're new lines and its a 2-line system- (2) 55" lines from the master cylinder, one to each caliper...... anyway, thanks again for the input, I really really appreciate it [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
-- the mechanically retarded mechanic ! lol [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

No you do not need the lid on to bleed just pull the lever in slowly or it may squirt fluid. Make sure you keep the resovoir full and don't pump up the lever then bleed that only heats the air up in the lines and makes things worse, do the following:

(with resovoir full of fluid)
pull lever in slowly to the point it is hard to squeeze (it may hit the bars to start with).
open bleed screw just enough for fluid to flow (1/4turn ish)
when the air/fluid stops, snug bleed screw and slowly release lever.
check fluid level and repeat, with that smaller amount of fluid being moved and 55" lines this may have to be done 30 times per side!

Go to your local "autozone" and see if they have a vacuum bleeder they will let you borrow.

good luck

 

Treekilla, Thank you much for detailed instructions. and Thanks to everyone else to. I got it! yeah [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

If there is some pressure and not a totally empty system, it is not necessary to manually bleed the brakes. About once every couple months, I take and pull the lever in, zip tie it around the grip (holding it in the "locked" position), then make sure the reservoir is full, then tap on the lines gently and leave it over night. With the valve inside open, the air can travel to the highest point and the brakes will be totally firm by morning; with no mess. I do all the bikes, trikes, and quads at the same time. If the system is totally empty (like when replacing lines) I prefer to fill the system from the bottom if possible or use an actual brake bleeder.

 

Thanx, that seem to work pretty good, I just went out there and removed the zip tie after it sat all last night and it does seem to be a lot firmer. Cool. thankx again - peace

 

I was at the Indy show two weeks ago and bought some "speed bleeders" and they work great!!!!!!
All you do is put them in in place of your stock bleader valves and they have a check valve in them that does'nt alow the air back into your lines. Call me and i'll get you hooked up on some. 419 553 0200
when you use these speed bleeders all you have to do is open the bleeder and pump the brakes until there is no more air comming out and it's done[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] no more going through all the jazz of pumping and release, pumping release. pumping release....