Took the new grizz to the woods today, spent about 6 hours putting around, getting off to cut down brush,clear trees for new trails,etc... Left it running half the time while clearing. I was trying to rack up some hours since I still hadn't made it to 10hrs yet. I started noticing the engine cutting out on occasion wene I goosed it. (hills and flat surfaces) Idled and slow cruised fine but if I gassed it, it would fall on it's face. This happened about 6 times alltogether. I shut it off and heard a boiling sound, opened gas cap stuck my finger in gas, felt very warm but not hot. Overheat light was not on. Ran fine later and runs fine now.
Anybody know what happened?
Is there a trick to prevent it?

And can anybody tell me the do it yourself method for reverse override? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

Gas does boil at a very low temp, and some gasses will boil lower than others. This is the problem that the Grizz has been suffering from since it was introduced as a 600. Something you may want to try is to switch the type of gas that you buy, from what comes through the shop I have found both BP and Shell gasses to be less prone to boiling at lower temps. The 05 model has had all of the heat preventative measures that Yamaha put into place with the heat kits that were put on earlier models at Yamaha's expense, so if you are still experiencing problems you can try rejetting, and/or further heat prevention techniques. I have found that stepping up the main one size and turning out the fuel mixture screw another 1/2 to 3/4 turn will help the unit run cooler (and take gas better), and that lowering the float level about 1 or 2 mm will help, although you do not want to lower it too much as the bowl can run out of fuel when sustaining a large throttle opening. One last thing would be to put a weatherproof fan assembly near the front of the unit, point it rearward on the left side of the unit and put it on a switch. When you step off of the unit and leave it idling just flip the switch to keep a small amount of air flowing around teh petcock and carb. This should cool the gas enough so that it does not boil inside the carb bowl.

Good Luck.

 

The 05 grizz has a reverse override. If you want higher rpm in low or reverse, press and hold the yellow button in. Or are you asking about, how to bypass it , for full time usage, without pressing the button?

 

It does not have a reverse override. The override is for diff-lock in the forward gears. You still have to wire in an override for reverse.

 

Thanks for the replies guys, I'll try shell gas and see how that works before jet,fan,or float adjustments. But if that doesn't work I now know what to start with.
I am talking about wiring in override for reverse. I saw kit on ebay that pretty much said it contained a wire and instructions for $20. If it's just connecting a wire someplace I was hoping somebody on the forum could tell me what to connect to. Thanks agin guys! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Sorry about that. I keep thinking the button works for reverse too.
Heres an old thread with instuctions.
old thread

 

Thanks hondabuster, thats exactly what I was looking for! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Heres another way to do it.
grizz reverse limiter override

 

As far as your gas boil goes, I had mine do that one time. I wrapped the header pipe in that highlifter heat wrap, and that basically solved the problem. I think the majority of the heat comes from the exhaust rather than off the engine itself. I think I paid $40 for the stuff, but it was worth it. Never another problem or heat issue ever. This was a couple years ago.

 

I had simlar problems but I was told the boiling gas only happend to the 02 grizz ...my problem ended up being as simple as the gas cap.
on the back side of the cap is a cover with a bearing and a filter in it ...take all that stuff out so it can vent . that was my problem maybe it will be yours too