Im thinking about using Mobile 1 syntetic oil when changing the oil in the Raptor and was wondering if this ok and if so what weight would you recamend using.I know when i had my ds650 they said not to use it because of the clutches but is it ok to use in this machine.To tell you the truth i didnt even look in the manual yet to see what yamaha says to use.I was told that fully syntetic oil is the best as long as you keep using it and dont switch to non syntetic.Any help would be great.

 

I would think the same would apply to the Raptor clutch as the DS650 clutch.

 

use a motorcycle specific oil other wise the clutch will slip. I am going to run yamalube 4R in my raptor when it is broke in it is synthetic.
also dont switch to synthetic until the motor is broke in the stuff is to slippery and the rings wont seat

 

I have posted on this many times. Synthetic will be fine, I have used it for years in my various rides. I can't for the life of me figure out how Bombardier can recommend against synthetic. The myths about clutch slippage are just that.

Think about it for a minute. In this day and age of product liability, don't you think the highly paid corporate lawyers at the oil companies would have warnings plastered all over the bottle if it did cause a problem? Same goes for the cam flattening myths.

Also there is a vast amount of documentation on the web of guys in the sportbike (Ninja, CBR, GSXR, etc...) world using automotive synthetics in their high RPM, high horsepower rides.

Motorcycle oil is marketing, nothing more (documentation is on the web, testing by independant laboratory show that most motorcycle oils actually perform worse than most automotive oils). Synthetics are not "more slippery" than conventional oils. They just have better film strength, higher resistance to thermal breakdown, better cold pumpability, etc.

The only thing I know to watch for is oils that contain "friction modifiers" which some say can cause clutches to slip. I have never tried out this theory, so I can't comment on it.

I use Mobil1 15w50. It has no friction modifiers. It has no viscosity index improvers. It is a blend of PAO (PolyAlphaOlefin), polyolesters, and diesters (hence the "tri-synthetic" labeling). You can look these materials up on the internet if you choose.

I highly recommend this oil, although I know it is not the absolute best available, it is very good and easy to obtain. Remember, wet clutches were designed to work with lubricants, that is what synthetic oil is, no magic, no mysteries, just better properties than conventional oil at a slightly higher price.

Although, given the Raptor's liquid cooling, the synthetic oil would be less beneficial than it is to an air cooled engine such as the 400EX - personally I would still run it due to the extended high RPMs typically seen by an ATV engine.

If anyone can come up with some difinitive proof that synthetics cause clutch slippage, I'd like to hear it. Please, no stories (too many unknown variables come into play), real data conducted in a scientific manner.

In the end though, do what you want. I have done the research, I run what I feel is best based on that research, all that I ask is that others do the research & post facts instead of furthering myths.

 

The type of oil doesnt make it slip it is the addition of friction modifiers. They cause slippage.

 

The Raptor manual states not to use the current automotive oils with the SJ rating because, like YaMaRaPtoR said, the friction modifiers. This is an accepted opinion in the on and off road motorcycle world. Use a FULL synthetic oil that is motorcycle specific. I use Castrol, its $8 a quart, but cheap insurance.

By the way all, the Raptor is Kick ***!!! I just got back from some trail riding in northern Michigan, all I can say is-------------Perfection!!!!! This machine draws alot of attention. Twelve tooth sprocket on order.

Banzai!!!!!!!!!

 

86atc250r, What are some other semi-synthetic or full-synthetic oils that are highly rated and safe for wet clutches? I'm not sure which oils have friction modifiers and which do not.

Thanks.

 

Just wondering, if it is perfect why are you putting on a different size sprocket?

 

Hey Scooby,

I'd stay away from semi-synthetics. The only reason they exist is to meet a price point, not because they offer any advantages.

The main idea though is to stay away from lower viscosities (usually labeled with "Energy Conserving" or "Energy Conserving II"). They are formulated for emissions and fuel economy and can employ friciton modifiers with can sometimes (not always) cause wet clutches to slip. This goes for both synthetic and conventional oils.

If you do decide to go with a "Motorcycle oil", check into if it includes VI improver and zinc. If anything should be different in a motorycycle oil - it should contain no VI improver, and an added amount of zinc and phosphorus. If available, Mobil1 V-Twin 20-50 motorcycle oil should fit the bill nicely. It contains no VI improver and 50% more zinc (best anti-wear additive known for when metal to metal contact does happen) than other conventional Mobil oils (not sure how much more than Mobil's synthetics).

Regular Mobil1 15w50 synthetic, from what I understand is basically the same as the V-Twin oil except for the extra zinc.

 

Watch that Castrol. They have been known to label group 3 hydrocracked mineral oils as fully synthetic, in their "Syntec" product line.

The result? You are getting an inferior oil for the same money as something better.

I use Mobil1 15w50, it's $4 a quart, can be purchased at Walmart, and there's info all over the web stating what it is and is not.

It's better to actaully know how an oil is formulated than to depend on "motorcycle oil" labeling & pricing.