I haven't done a plug chop with the 140 yet, I don't have any new spark plugs, but will get a few tomorrow and see what the results are. I may have to play with the needle setting some if I can find a good writeup or pics of showing exactly what to do since this is the first time for me to actually be the one working on the carb. My dad has always done it before, but I decided it would be best to learn how it works firsthand so down the road I don't have to rely on someone else. It seems like most people are running about a 150-155 main with mods similar to mine on a warrior or wolverine, so I'm thinking it may actually be lean, I'll find out tomorrow and post the results.


Edit: I forgot to add that I no longer have the factory exhaust or air filter, both got chunked when the aftermarket stuff came in, so im gonnna have to tune this all at once.

 

95Wolv, do you remember what size main jet is in yours? Since your setup looks to be pretty similar to mine, maybe that would give me a good starting point if playing with the needle setting doesn't clear it up. BTW I am at about 150ft above sea level.

 

Wood,
It sounds like your wolverine is STARVING for gas (running lean). With you mods, you are moving a lot more air through the carb. Try running it with the choke on. If it seems to run smoother it is lean. Backfiring through the carb is comon on the wolverine when the carb is dirty (gummed up gas lines meaning it is not getting enough gas, ultimatly running lean).

To get your understandings for the stock jetting: 140 main, needle is in the middle position.

Since you say at about 3/4 throttle the machine cut out, I would jump up to a 145.
You can also adjust the needle "up". This will open up the main jet more, allowing more gas to flow through. Try the second position from the bottom.
*Only do one adjustment at a time. You will be a pro at removing the carb real quick.

I have had poor luck cleaning my carb with drop in fuel additives. I am sure they work if you run them all the time, but they will not disolve a bug that found its way into your carb[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] It can happen, trust me[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

To clean your carb, this is what I would suggest:
~Remove it from your Wolverine and place on workbench
~Remove ALL plastic and rubber items(covers and o-rings). This includes the large rubber diaphram attached to the needle jet slide, and the diaphram on the right side of the carb. (watch out for flying springs!)
~Blast all openings in the carb with B12 Chemtool Carb Cleaner. (since you can not remove the floats, do this with the carb UPRIGHT to avoid spraying the plastic floats)
~Blast all openings with compressed air
~Put it all back together

Be sure not to lose the 2 small O-Rings on the top and Right hand side of the carb. This just happened to me today[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-mad.gif[/img] (the local auto store had some though)

Good luck, I cant wait untill my wolverine needs a rebuild so I can mod it.

 

One thing I did forget to mention is that if I put it on choke at all it won't run once it is even reasonably warm, which is one of the main reasons I was assuming it is running rich. I cleaned everything in the bowl out when I first decided to try to ride it, then cleaned everything in the bowl again when had it apart to swap out the main jet to a 140 from the 145, and pulled the top plate off and looked in it, but it looked pretty clean, so I didn't mess with it. If someone could tell me generally how to change the needle setting that would be a big help, but if not, im sure I can figure it out by looking around on here.

 

I *believe* your 99 has the same carb as my 00....

To change the needle:
~Remove the top plate (plastic and metal)
~Remove big Spring
~Gently pick the rubber diaphram so it can be removed
~Pull the diaphram and slide out (they are attached to one another)
After the diaphram and slide are out, you will see the needle.
~Gently turn the unit upside down, the needle and one plasitic spacer should fall out (do this on a clean work bench, or on a paper towl)
On the needle you will see a Plastic spacer still atached to it, and directly on top of this spacer you will see a circle clip
~Seperate the spacer and circle clip by pushing the spacer down some
~Use a short/fat slotted screw driver and apply pressue to the open part of the C-Clip. (WATCH OUT, this this can and will fly if you do not have a finger or something on the backside)
~Move the C-clip to new desired position. From thje factory it is in the middle (#3) To lean out your carb move the C-Clip above the factory position. To richen the carb, move it under the factory position.
~Push little spacer back agianst the C-clip
~Drop the needle back into the slide
~Drop the plastic spacer into the slide following the needle. You might need a small screw driver to get it up and down. (the needle's top edge is to go through the center of the spacer)
~Put slide/needle assembly back into carb
~Be sure the rubber diaphram's lip sits in the groove atop of the carb.
~Install spring and top plates

You can pretty much tear these carbs apart with no prior experience. Simply undo and redo. There are no adjustments that need to be made, and are more simple than the warrior/wolverine accelerator pump carb (fewer moving parts)

 

I have a warrior 36mm mikuni carb on mine instead of the stock one, so I guess I have the more complicated one. Im gonna pull it apart and look around, im sure I can figure it out, it probably wont be too different from the 34mm carb. Thanks for the writeup, I'm about to go get some spark plugs and start tuning some more...

 

Ok, I just did a plug chop with a brand new spark plug, and am not too sure of the results... I cranked it up, rode it easy for a few minutes to let it warm up, then did a wot run down the road for abot 10 seconds, then rode it wot for about 15 seconds on the way back. It looks like it may be lean, but im not really sure here are some pics, tell me what you think...
pic 1
pic 2
Pic 3
It actually looks a little lighter than in the pics, but I couldn't get good light on it.

Sorry for the last 2 being blurry, I couldn't get the camera to focus on something so close, but you can still see the color. Anyone have any input? Comparing it to the spark plugs on This page it looks lean, anyone else?

 

Well, I have been working on this off and on for about 3 weeks now, and I think I finally have it almost down. Right now the needle is on the #1 or 2 slot (can't remember), with the stock 42.5 pilot jet, 142.5 main, and the idle mixture screw 3 rounds out. I ran it with this setup except with a 145 main, and it was sputtering and bogging down at WOT, put in the 142.5 and it made a world of difference. It still doesn't quite rev out like it should though, expecially not going up a slight hill. Tomorrow I am going to try the 140 main, I think that should do it. My only concern is that from idle if you snap the throttle all the way open really quick and hold it, it will still kill the motor. I am just glad to finally be gettin it close to finished, I have taken the carb of probably around 15 times (5 of them were just tonight). The midrange feels really strong now, and I can definately feel it coming on the cam, I guess that would be the proper term for it, now if I can just get the top end running as strong... Tomorrow maybe...