Kenz will hook you up with a nice 686 for $2k, as far as what your planning do, its a good runner, but you need to by the Kibblewhite spring. the cam will float the valves and it will be useless on topend. and your going to probably bent a valve in the process. and dont even thing about putting that 686 in their with out changing the rod. but do what you want, no one seems to listen to me anyway. wiseco, and JE bores a 673cc you could probably run that piston on the stock rod, but good luck. seriously once again raptors rods sucks, get the carillo or the barker.

 

I learned the hard way a long time ago with V8s, if your building a motor build it right or it will cost you more in the long run.

TR

 

I could'nt agree more trailrider I had a 83 chev and dropped the motor off for a rebuild at the engine shop it cost me 2300 canadian. I drove it for 50 000 k's and sold it to my buddy who is still driving it on that rebuild. This was nothing fancy but there was 8 cylinders involved and the number of miles on that rebuild suggest it was done right. I would think you would agree that thats quite a bit of dough for one cylinder.

 

Parts for these things is all about supply and demand.I know I have spent plenty on my Raptor. Just bolt ons, FCR carbs, Exhaust,Swingarm,axle and carrier,paddles,etc was about $3000.

Take everyones advice and save your money to do it once and be done right. A good bottom end will run about $400-500 depending on the rod choice and if you have it balanced. Top end 180-300 for a piston and rings. 250 or so for a stage 2 and springs. 150 or so for a good set of valves.50-100 for machine work Most charge around 400-450 for standard porting. 400-500 labor for assembly. Then you have misc costs gaskets etc.
When you start getting wild, Cryo treatment,Coatings,Titainum parts,High end port work,Stroking,overide transmissions, can run thousands in itself.

 

By the way, I have a used stage 1 cam if you are interested.

 

Thanks scholle that is what I wanted to hear at least I know I won't be getting a wild 686. A chrome moly connecting rod - a barker 180 bucks a barker titanium rod 490 bucks, so if you stayed away from those kind of things you could build it relativly cheaply and still have a pretty fast bike. Is transmission work neccesary? You'll have to excuse my ignorace here but if you were using a new connecting rod would you have to have your crankshaft resurfaced? thanks for the input

 

You won't want to ignore the clutch either, do an upgrade.

 

Have I stumped you guys? I am guessing you would have to machine the crank but would like to know. I also wonder if most of the machining could be done at my local engine shop or if there is specialized equipment involved in working on these machines due to the scale. well thanks for the responces

 

I just bought a Hot Rods Rod/crank assembly for $250 from monkeybutt parts.com. They had it in stock. The Rod is double forged and shot peened and is much meatier than stock. The stock rod is cast junk. I wouldn't use that rod in my weedeater.

You can drop this crank assy in your motor yourself. Raptortranny.com has very good instructions.

You can get your cyl bored to 102mm over for $50 at a local shop. Wiseco makes a nice 11:1 piston for under $150. Stage 2 cam and springs for about $250. Send the head out to a reputable place like Kenz or craycraft for porting and have the springs put on.

Then keep changing the jets till you get her dialed in. This makes a big difference.

You can get away cheap if you do it yourself.

 

Thank you masterraptor that anwsers lots I will check it out.