Bruin Speedo
#1
Hey All,
I just picked up an '05 Bruin 350 4X4 and was wondering if anybody has installed the factory speedo or the trailtech computer. If so, what did you think?
Any feedback will be appreciated!
Forrest
I just picked up an '05 Bruin 350 4X4 and was wondering if anybody has installed the factory speedo or the trailtech computer. If so, what did you think?
Any feedback will be appreciated!
Forrest
#3
I sent an email to their sales folks and this was their reply...
-4ist
We haven't tested fitment on that specific application. We have
received
cust. Feedback and they have used part number 2010-20. I would
recommend
you look at our institution photos on our website www.trailtech.net for
the
Bruin 2005.
Best Regards,
Janna
Trail Tech INC.
360-687-4530 EXT:109
360-687-8164
23712 NE Canyon Loop
Battle Ground, WA 98604
www.trailtech.net
-4ist
We haven't tested fitment on that specific application. We have
received
cust. Feedback and they have used part number 2010-20. I would
recommend
you look at our institution photos on our website www.trailtech.net for
the
Bruin 2005.
Best Regards,
Janna
Trail Tech INC.
360-687-4530 EXT:109
360-687-8164
23712 NE Canyon Loop
Battle Ground, WA 98604
www.trailtech.net
#6
I ordered the 2010-20 yesterday. I don't know about the andle bar kit, but form the pictures it looks like you can use the included bracket. I'll let you know how it looks when I get it have it installed.
-4ist
-4ist
#7
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#8
I got the kit and hooked it up today. It works well, but don't have it dialed in yet. As far as installation goes, it's a pain in the a$$.
I elected to mount the dock on the spot where the speedo would have gone. There is already a hole large enough to accommodate the sensor cable that needs to be fed from the top down. The other option was to mount on the plastic cover where the key switch is located, but I didn't want to deal with the flex caused by steering. The upper mounting went OK, but I had to use slightly longer screws and 4 washers to allow for proper standoff from the Yamaha insignia in the middle of the panel. If you didn't have access to a die grinder to relieve the plastic in certain areas where required, I don't know that I'd go with this method. Mounting on the key switch cover would probably be an easier way to go, or if you can splurge for the additional ~$75 for the nicey-nicey mount do that.
The sensor hook up was rather involved. First of all be sure you have a 24mm socket to get the axle nut off before you get started. Most other tools you probably have. The included hub-to-rotor-bolt is not usable. Not only is it a little short, but the shoulder size is too small for the rotor and does not support the brake rotor in shear; a condition that might cause warpage after migration of the rotor under a heavy braking condition (just my opinion). I reinstalled the factory hub-to-rotor-bolt and went with the alternate magnet mounting method; I JB welded the magnet immediately adjacent a hub-to-rotor-bolt. If you used JB weld, be aware that the reason the instruction tell you to use a razor blade to cover the magnet is because the ferrous particulate in the JB weld will polarize and will be attracted to the side of the magnet where you don't want any 'goo'. After it hardens partially, it can be scraped off with no problem.
Attaching the sensor to the backplate presented two challenges. First, the sensor was too small for the vent hole. I used a small washer and two larger washers to sandwich the small one so as to fill in the hole and find a mounting that would not migrate in the cooling hole.
The other issue was that the backplate has a tendency to migrate laterally which would potentially allow the sensor to crash with the magnet. I chose to drill a hole (don’t remember the size, but whatever clearance hole is require for a #10 bolt), install a shouldered bolt and washer with a nylock nut so as to eliminate backplate migration.
The sensor cable had to be carefully and thoughtfully tywrapped but the length was more than adequate.
I measured the stock tire as having a circumference of 73” which was 1854 mm. a good starting place, but will dial in closer with the use of a GPS and a long runway.
Overall I’d say this is a good product, and probably a cheaper way to go if you gotta have a speedo on your Bruin. Just realize that the 2010-20 kit is not a bolt-on solution.
Feel free to ask questions about anything I used or considered and I’ll throw in my 2 cents worth as my schedule permits…
-4ist
I elected to mount the dock on the spot where the speedo would have gone. There is already a hole large enough to accommodate the sensor cable that needs to be fed from the top down. The other option was to mount on the plastic cover where the key switch is located, but I didn't want to deal with the flex caused by steering. The upper mounting went OK, but I had to use slightly longer screws and 4 washers to allow for proper standoff from the Yamaha insignia in the middle of the panel. If you didn't have access to a die grinder to relieve the plastic in certain areas where required, I don't know that I'd go with this method. Mounting on the key switch cover would probably be an easier way to go, or if you can splurge for the additional ~$75 for the nicey-nicey mount do that.
The sensor hook up was rather involved. First of all be sure you have a 24mm socket to get the axle nut off before you get started. Most other tools you probably have. The included hub-to-rotor-bolt is not usable. Not only is it a little short, but the shoulder size is too small for the rotor and does not support the brake rotor in shear; a condition that might cause warpage after migration of the rotor under a heavy braking condition (just my opinion). I reinstalled the factory hub-to-rotor-bolt and went with the alternate magnet mounting method; I JB welded the magnet immediately adjacent a hub-to-rotor-bolt. If you used JB weld, be aware that the reason the instruction tell you to use a razor blade to cover the magnet is because the ferrous particulate in the JB weld will polarize and will be attracted to the side of the magnet where you don't want any 'goo'. After it hardens partially, it can be scraped off with no problem.
Attaching the sensor to the backplate presented two challenges. First, the sensor was too small for the vent hole. I used a small washer and two larger washers to sandwich the small one so as to fill in the hole and find a mounting that would not migrate in the cooling hole.
The other issue was that the backplate has a tendency to migrate laterally which would potentially allow the sensor to crash with the magnet. I chose to drill a hole (don’t remember the size, but whatever clearance hole is require for a #10 bolt), install a shouldered bolt and washer with a nylock nut so as to eliminate backplate migration.
The sensor cable had to be carefully and thoughtfully tywrapped but the length was more than adequate.
I measured the stock tire as having a circumference of 73” which was 1854 mm. a good starting place, but will dial in closer with the use of a GPS and a long runway.
Overall I’d say this is a good product, and probably a cheaper way to go if you gotta have a speedo on your Bruin. Just realize that the 2010-20 kit is not a bolt-on solution.
Feel free to ask questions about anything I used or considered and I’ll throw in my 2 cents worth as my schedule permits…
-4ist
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