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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 02:53 PM
  #11  
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I bought a +2, but havent put it on yet. I didn't want go any longer cause I hate that old school quad heavy front end feel.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 02:59 PM
  #12  
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I don't like the have to heavy front end feel either. Maybe if I only drag raced but for trail riding and just having fun it would suck.
The rod didn't come with my kit by the way, lol (my screw up)
Those of you with the 686 kit, where did you get your rod or have you had any problems with stock yet?
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 03:07 PM
  #13  
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hey raptorgav

what kind of mod are you talking about to the stock carbs?
thanks...
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 03:40 PM
  #14  
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Originally posted by: Gatorhunter
I don't like the have to heavy front end feel either. Maybe if I only drag raced but for trail riding and just having fun it would suck.
The rod didn't come with my kit by the way, lol (my screw up)
Those of you with the 686 kit, where did you get your rod or have you had any problems with stock yet?
There is a common misconception on this forum that you have to go to a fancy Carillo or barker rod in a Raptor. The fact is that you don't need a fancy rod, you just need one that doesn't suck. The stock Raptor rod is pathetic. Yamaha should be banned from making engines because of it. It violates all the basic rules of rod design. Unless you plan to turn 10K+ RPMS you don't need fancy shmancy rods.

That being said, hot rods makes a great rod at low cost...and it comes with a crank for $250. The rod is double forged and shot peened. The stock rod is cast briggs and stratton.

Raptor wiseco crank assy.

Better yet, if you pick a piston that weighs 385.5 grams, you are balanced...according to Wiesco. (my 12:1 cp weighs 388g so I am not balanced)

Otherwise, I believe just changing the rod on your stock crank is $300 + the cost of the rod.

BTW, if you don't change the rod it will break. No doubt. See my page.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 08:34 PM
  #15  
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I was thinking about the alot about the hot rod. How hard is it to put in a new rod (any websites would be helpful) I wouldn't think it would be to bad as long as someone can read a parts manual and has a decent amount of mechancial experience.
I may just send the whole motor to Craycraft he said labor would be 800 plus cost of rod and 85 for seal and that good stuff.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 09:50 PM
  #16  
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Originally posted by: Gatorhunter
I may just send the whole motor to Craycraft
That's the best way to ensure reliability.

 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 10:06 PM
  #17  
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Actually a new crank install is still a PITA, even when you're swapping out the whole assembly. Unless you've got experience with similar jobs or a friend willing to help you who does, I wouldnt try it on my own.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #18  
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yea I most likey will send it to him
I do have a friend (sort of a friend) that works for the honda shop and does matience and motor work.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 12:24 AM
  #19  
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The crank has to be un pressed to change the rod. Definately need a shop. That's why the wiesco crank assy is a good deal. You can just drop it in to the case.

But, I would send it to Bob. The slightest mistake will cost thousands. Bob knows this engine like the back of his hand.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2005 | 02:11 AM
  #20  
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Originally posted by: MasterRaptor
The crank has to be un pressed to change the rod. Definately need a shop. That's why the wiesco crank assy is a good deal. You can just drop it in to the case.

But, I would send it to Bob. The slightest mistake will cost thousands. Bob knows this engine like the back of his hand.
Even without having to sweat the crank assembly apart it's still a chore.
 
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